In southwestern Colorado, the jagged San Juan Mountains cradle history and lore. Mines pockmark their slopes, quaint towns hug their valleys and historic railways twist through their canyons. Desert landscapes border the range’s southern edge. As it traverses this region, the San Juan Skyway Scenic and Historic Byway scales to alpine vistas, descends into arid lands rich with prehistoric treasures and climbs again among towering peaks.
The paved 236-mile route forms a loop anchored by Ridgway in the north and Cortez and Durango in the south. Travelers who extend the trip two days or more can enjoy many activities – including exploring prehistoric cliff dwellings, railroad history, mine tours, hiking and soaking in hot mineral springs.
In Ridgway, the byway traverses a valley of ranch lands. Climbing west toward Placerville, it crosses the Dallas Divide and veers south along the San Miguel River.
A spur leads to Telluride, nestled in a box canyon. Famous for its ski mountain and summer festivals, the historic town offers walking tours chock-full of tales about Butch Cassidy and Williams Jennings Bryan, and jeep excursions to Tomboy Mine.
As the road continues south, Sunshine Mountain and Wilson Peak rise into view. A scenic overlook reveals the former site of the Ames Power Plant. The facility’s alternating current electric power reduced 19th-century ore mills’ energy costs by 75 percent.
The byway parallels Dolores Creek as it tumbles past subalpine firs, aspens, willows and burgundy rock. In Dolores, the Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum showcases memorabilia inside a replica depot. In the 1930s, the railroad company built several lightweight, gasoline-powered rail buses to save it from bankruptcy. Each rail bus, called a Galloping Goose, required only one man to transport passengers, mail and light freight on routes through the San Juan Mountains. One of these hybrid vehicles stands in front of the museum.
South to Cortez and then east to Durango, the road enters an area rich in archaeological finds. Both the Anasazi Heritage Center outside Dolores and the Cortez Cultural Center provide informative exhibits about the area’s prehistoric people. For travelers with an extra day or more, Mesa Verde National Park is a must-see. Situated on a high plateau, the UNESCO World Heritage Site preserves and interprets intriguing pithouses, cliff dwellings and other vestiges of the Ancestral Puebloans, who mysteriously disappeared around 1300 A.D.
East to Durango, the former mining supply center, attracts railroad, cowboy culture and outdoor recreation enthusiasts.
The byway continues north to Silverton through valleys, canyons and mountains. A turn-off leads to Durango Mountain Resort, a snowrider haven.
Atop 10,910-foot Molas Divide, views of Weminuche Wilderness, Grenadier Range and Molas Lake unfold. Storm Peak and other pinnacles scrape the sky. At this lofty elevation, the Colorado Trail crosses the byway.
On the descent into Silverton, piles of talus mark once-lucrative mines that lured fortune seekers. Mineral Creek meanders on the valley floor. In Silverton, visitors stroll on boardwalks and dirt streets past Victorian buildings. A museum, gold mill and mine chronicle life here more than a century ago.
From Silverton to Ouray, the byway follows a narrow, 23-mile segment known as the Million Dollar Highway. After zigzagging to an elevation of 11,008 feet, it reaches the former Red Mountain Mining District. The district reportedly produced nearly $12 million of ore, equivalent today to about $250 million.
The highway corkscrews down through Uncompaghre Gorge. Hues of gold, rust and burgundy mottle the rock, rivaling the trees’ vibrant autumn palette.
In Ouray, hikes to Box Canyon Falls, walks in the historic district, mine tours and hot springs entice travelers.
The byway then continues north, following the Uncompaghre River. Junipers and pion pines carpet slopes that edge a valley of ranchlands. At Ridgway, the San Juan Skyway completes its spectacular loop. Shaded by 100-year-old cottonwoods, the town park provides an inviting setting to picnic before heading home.
Nancy and David Muenker, who live in Denver, are the authors of two guidebooks, the Colorado Front Range History Explorer and Colorado Front Range Scenic and Historic Byways.
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If you go
San Juan Skyway Scenic and Historic Byway
The route: The byway forms a loop in southwestern Colorado that follows Colorado 62 from Ridgway to Placerville, Colorado 145 from Placerville to Cortez, U.S. 160 from Cortez to Durango, and U.S. 550 from Durango to Ridgway.
Total length: 236 miles.
Driving time: Six hours.
Great for: Autumn color, historic mining towns, Ancient Puebloan ruins, railroad history, outdoor recreation activities and extraordinary views.
Best seasons: Fall for color, temperature, fewer travelers; summer for mountain activities and access to all of Mesa Verde National Park.
Vehicle restrictions: None. Paved road, open year-round. Inquire about road conditions in winter.
Area attractions:
Anasazi Heritage Center, Dolores, 970-882-4811, www.co.blm.gov/ahc.
Cortez Cultural Center, Cortez, 970-565-1151, www.cortezculturalcenter.org.
Mesa Verde National Park, 970-529-4465,cq www.nps.gov/meve.
Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum, Dolores, 800-807-4712.
Area information:
Dolores Chamber of Commerce, 800-807-4712, www.doloreschamber.com.
Durango Area Tourism Office, 800-525-8855, www.durango.org.
Mesa Verde Country Visitor Information Bureau, 800-253-1616, www.mesaverdecountry.com.
Ouray Chamber Resort Association, 800-228-1876, www.ouraycolorado.com.
Ridgway Area Chamber of Commerce, 800-220-4959, www.ridgwaycolorado.com.
Silverton, www.silvertoncolorado.com, 800-752-4494.
Telluride, 888-605-2578, www.visittelluride.com.
Byway contact: San Juan National Forest, 15 Burnett Court, Durango, CO 81301; 970-247-4874.
