For nearly a century, travelers have admired the Peak to Peak Highway’s forested slopes, snow-dusted mountains and sweeping vistas.
In 1918, the state named the route its first scenic byway. When the Colorado Scenic and Historic Byways program was created in 1989, the Peak to Peak was selected as one of the five initial designated routes.
The Peak to Peak Scenic and Historic Byway parallels the Continental Divide between Black Hawk, in Gregory Gulch, and Estes Park, gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. Throughout the journey, it captures awe-inspiring views of rugged mountaintops scraping the sky. Those who travel the byway can also enjoy hiking, fishing, snow sports, wildlife viewing and historic settlements.
The route starts above 8,000 feet in the historic mining district occupied by Black Hawk and Central City, once known as “the richest square mile on earth.”
Today, limited-stake gambling casinos and the Central City Opera House lure visitors to the quaint towns. Each summer, a blast of miner’s dynamite and ringing of the theater’s bell herald the beginning of the opera season.
All along the way, the byway traverses public lands, each offering recreational activities in pristine settings.
First comes Arapaho National Forest, then the entrance to Golden Gate Canyon State Park.
The majestic range in the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area fills the horizon as the road winds upward. The Wilderness Act of 1964 protects this and other selected federal lands from human settlement and mechanization.
Lush ponderosa pine forests cover the slopes. In autumn, stands of aspen streak the mountainsides with broad swaths of gold. In winter, snow-capped South Arapaho, North Arapaho, Kiowa and Navajo peaks shimmer under the sun like diamonds.
The route enters Rollinsville, once a major railroad hub. Before the Moffat Tunnel was bored, westbound trains chugged over treacherous Rollins Pass.
To complete the 23-mile trip, locomotive firemen had to shovel 15 tons of coal into the engine. Today, on winter weekends, the Ski Train whistles through Rollinsville, transporting snow riders to Winter Park Resort.
After entering Roosevelt National Forest, the byway reaches its halfway point at Nederland. The mountain town has evolved from a mining center to an alpine suburb of Boulder. It got its name when Dutch investors bought nearby silver mines. Ore booms in the late 1800s brought so many people to the town that hoteliers rented beds in eight-hour shifts, and restaurants allowed diners only 20 minutes to eat a meal. Today, travelers stop here to explore the town’s arts and crafts galleries, rock shop, museum and riverside trail. A number of eateries, including a Nepalese restaurant, offer a variety of lunch options. In the winter, skiers glide down the slopes of nearby Eldora Mountain Resort.
The road continues winding upward to Ward, where the elevation exceeds 9,600 feet. Mounds of talus ring the former mining camp. In the 1890s, Switzerland Trail of America Railroad operated a daily excursion train to Ward. Passengers thrilled in scaling the mountain to scenic vistas and fresh alpine air. Today, a well-preserved schoolhouse and church remind visitors of the quiet community’s golden days.
The highway then descends into Peaceful Valley, a former noontime stop on the Ward-Estes stage run, and enters Middle St. Vrain canyon. When it turns onto Colorado 7, Mount Meeker towers on the horizon. The peak was named after Nathan Meeker, founder of the Union Colony at Greeley. Built atop a huge granite rock, St. Malo Chapel graces the roadside.
As the byway winds down into Tahosa Valley, it passes a historic marker honoring Enos Mills. The naturalist’s tireless campaign led to creation of Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915. The single-room log cabin in which he wrote many of his stories about wildlife and nature stands back from the road. The Enos Mills Cabin Museum & Gallery sells his photographs and books, including previously unpublished works.
Across the highway is Longs Peak Inn, which Mills owned and operated in the early 1900s. He interpreted nature for his guests and led hundreds of climbs up 14,255-foot Longs Peak.
Farther down the road, the Twin Sisters rise to the east. Six miles before the byway reaches its northern point, Lily Lake Visitor Center orients travelers to Rocky Mountain National Park. Exhibits give recommendations for various activities, including birdwatching, wildflower viewing and photography. From this angle, Longs Peak is distinguished by its beaver shape. Across from the center, a groomed gravel path circles Lily Lake. Anglers enjoy catch-and-release fly fishing.
Estes Park, the eastern gateway to Colorado’s first national park, lies nestled below in a broad mountain valley. The descent curves through cut rock to the resort town. Elk often graze in roadside meadows. In the distance, Mummy Range pinpoints the location of the national park, promising additional wonders for those who continue exploring.
Nancy and David Muenker, who live in Denver, are the authors of “Colorado Front Range History Explorer” and “Colorado Front Range Scenic and Historic Byways.”
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If you go
Route: The Peak to Peak Scenic and Historic Byway follows Colorado 72 and Colorado 7 between Black Hawk/Central City and Estes Park.
Total length: 55 miles.
Driving time: One and one-half hours, excluding stops.
Great for: Sweeping vistas of mountain ranges, recreational activities on public lands, pioneer and mining history.
Best seasons: Summer for exploring public lands, autumn for fall color.
Vehicle restrictions: None.
Accessibility: Year-round, on paved road.
Attractions:
Eldora Mountain Resort: 303-440-8700, www.eldora.com.
Enos Mills Cabin Museum and Gallery: 920-586-4706, home.earthlink.net/~enosmillscbn. Days vary so call for information. Free.
Golden Gate Canyon State Park: 303-582-3707, http://parks.state.co.us. 2004 annual pass $55, daily pass $5.
Rocky Mountain National Park: 970-586-1206, www.nps.gov/romo. Entrance fee, valid for 7 days, $15.
Information: Boulder Convention & Visitors Bureau, 303-442-2911, www.bouldercoloradousa.com. Central City, 800-542-2999, www.centralcityco
.org; Estes Park Chamber Resort Association, 970-586-4431, 800-443-7837, www.estes-park.com.
