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Compaia de Vinos Telmos Rodriguez

2002 Mlaga Moscatel MR

(Imported by Giuliana Imports, Boulder; about $20/500 ml)

Here’s an easy way to inject sun into the short, dark days of late December: Drink a glass of this moscatel.

Even the color looks like sunlight, pale and shining gold, and it smells of flowers and the honey that bees make from them. That’s not so surprising: It comes from Mlaga, after all, a warm, sun-soaked region on the southern shore of Spain.

But unlike traditional Malaga wines, which take on dark, heavy flavors by letting the grapes roast in the sun, this is fresh and vibrant with honeyed lemon flavors, a flourish of chamomile adding extra delicacy.

It’s light enough to pair with sugar cookies or panettone, though it’s also terrific on its own.

– Tara Q. Thomas

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