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When chilly days descend upon the state, it’s time to bring out the 4-quart pots and soup bowls. The recipes below-many traditional dishes in other countries-are sure to warm both body and soul.


Leek and Winter Squash Soup with Gruyere Croutons

This elegant leek and winter squash soup is the perfect holiday starter. It can be made ahead and garnished just before serving. “The hearty flavors of the squash and leeks complement each other and create an elegant comfort food, and you’ll love the Gruyere crouton,” write Debbie and Carlos Nieto in their cookbook, “Carlos’ Contemporary French Cuisine,” from which this recipe is adapted. Serves 6.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 stick (3/4 cup) unsalted butter

  • 6 shallots, coarsely chopped

  • 3 ribs celery, coarsely chopped

  • 2 medium carrots, peeled, coarsely chopped

  • 2 cloves garlic

  • 1 leek, halved, coarsely chopped

  • 2 medium butternut or acorn squash, peeled, halved, seeded, coarsely chopped

  • 1 teaspoon each of celery seed, cumin seed

  • 2 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) chicken broth

  • 1/2 teaspoon each of salt, white pepper

  • 6 slices French baguette

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

  • 6 slices Gruyere cheese

  • 1/2 cup whipping cream

  • 1 teaspoon honey

    Directions

    For soup: heat the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat; add the shallots, celery, carrots, garlic and leek. Cook, stirring, until garlic and shallots begin to turn translucent, about 4 minutes.

    Stir in the squash, celery seed and cumin seed; stir in the chicken broth. Increase the heat to medium-high; heat to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer; cook until vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Remove from heat; set aside to cool, about 25 minutes.

    Purée the soup in small batches in a blender, straining each batch into a large bowl. Return the soup to the pot; add the salt and pepper. (The soup can be made to this point one day ahead, then reheated.)

    For croutons: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Brush olive oil on both sides of bread slices. Place bread on a baking sheet; bake until tops are toasted, about 2 minutes. Remove from oven. Turn slices over; top each with a cheese slice. Return to the oven to melt cheese, watching carefully to prevent burning, about 3 minutes.

    Stir cream and honey into the hot soup. Ladle soup into each of six bowls; float a crouton in center of each.


    New Mexico Red Posole

    This classic American Indian dish from New Mexico comes from “On the Chile Trail: 100 Great Recipes From Across America” (Gibbs Smith, $24.95), by Coyote Joe, the founder of the Mad Coyote Spice Company. Serves 8.

    Ingredients

  • 8 mild New Mexico red chile pods

  • 2 (48-ounce) cans chicken broth

  • 4 cloves fresh garlic, minced

  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin

  • 1 teaspoon whole Mexican oregano

  • 2 tablespoons corn oil

  • 2 pounds roasted pork, cut into chunks

  • 2 (28-ounce) cans white hominy, drained

    Garnish:

  • 1/4 purple cabbage, shredded

  • 1 bunch fresh cilantro, washed and chopped fine

  • 1/2 white onion, chopped fine

  • 1 bunch red radishes, washed and thinly sliced

  • 1 tablespoon chile tepins

  • 2 fresh Key limes, cut into wedges

    Directions

    Remove stems, seeds and veins from the chiles. Carefully toast the pods in a dry iron frying pan until soft and pliable but not burnt (if the chiles burn, they will become bitter). Simmer the chiles in the chicken broth along with the garlic, cumin and oregano for 20 minutes. Run chiles and broth through the blender, 1/2 cup at a time. (Be careful – hot liquids expand in a blender and can spill over the top and burn you.) Work the broth and chiles through a wire sieve with the back of a spoon into a mixing bowl until only the chile solids are left in the sieve; discard these.

    In a stockpot, brown the pork in oil and then add chile-chicken broth mixture and hominy. Simmer on low for a few hours. (I let it burble along all day; it makes the house smell great!) Stir occasionally. Serve in big soup bowls topped with purple cabbage, white onion, radish slices and cilantro. Crush one chile tepin on top and drizzle with a squeeze of fresh lime.


    Italian Bread and Cheese Soup

    From “Simple Suppers,” by The Moosewood Collective (Clarkson Potter, 2005, $32.50). Serves 4.

    Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed

  • 1 quart vegetable broth

  • 4 ounces grated fontina, Gruyere or cheddar cheese (about 2 cups)

  • 4 slices whole-wheat bread

  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil or parsley

  • Black pepper

    Directions

    In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until just golden, but not brown. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.

    Meanwhile, toast the bread. Break each slice into bite- sized chunks and arrange in 4 serving bowls. Add 1/2 cup of cheese to each bowl over the bread. Sprinkle with basil or parsley and pepper.

    To serve, ladle 1 cup of hot broth over the bread and cheese in each bowl.


    Sopa de Ajo

    Castilian Garlic Soup

    Chef Jose Andres is the chef-owner of seven restaurants in the Washington, D.C., area. This recipe, from his new book, “Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America” (Clarkson Potter: $35), is a traditional Castilian dish. “You can make this soup with water if you like,” Andres says. “That’s the traditional way, but I find that chicken stock makes it richer and tastier.” Serves 4.

    Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons Spanish extra-virgin olive oil

  • 6 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

  • 2 tablespoons white wine

  • 1/2 tablespoon pimenton (Spanish sweet paprika)

  • 3 ounces rustic white bread, crust removed, torn into small pieces

  • 1 quart Chicken Stock (see recipe below) or favorite canned broth

  • 2 large eggs, beaten

  • Salt to taste

    1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

    Directions

    Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium flame. Add the garlic and sauté until golden brown, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook until the alcohol evaporates, about 30 seconds. Then add the pimenton and sauté for 1 minute.

    Add the bread and pour in the chicken stock. Stir together and bring to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 8 minutes.

    Add the eggs and stir with a spatula to fold them into the soup. The eggs will form long strands, almost like noodles. Simmer for 2 more minutes, and add salt to taste. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.


    Caldo de pollo

    Chicken Stock

    Makes about 2 quarts

    Ingredients

  • 1 chicken (about 2 1/2 pounds; whole or parts), rinsed

  • 3 carrots, peeled

  • 2 onions, peeled and halved

  • 1 leek, well washed, outer leaves removed

  • 1 head garlic, papery outer skin removed, halved

  • 1/4 cup Spanish extra-virgin olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns

  • 1 bay leaf

  • 1 sprig fresh thyme

  • 10 sprigs fresh parsley

  • Salt to taste

    Directions

    Put 4 quarts of water in a stockpot and add all the ingredients except the salt. Bring to a boil. As the stock comes to the boil, foam will form on the surface. Scoop this off immediately, so that your stock will end up as clear and clean as possible.

    Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 hours. Add salt to taste, and remove from the heat. Strain the stock and store it in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer until you need it.


    Curry Soup Noodles

    This dish combines the style of Chinese soup noodles with the flavors of Indian curries. From “The Best Recipes in the World: More Than 1,000 International Dishes to Cook at Home,” by food writer Mark Bittman (Doubleday Broadway, $29.95), this recipe from Malaysia can be used as a main course.Serves 4.

    Ingredients

  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled

  • 3 shallots, peeled

  • One 1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled

  • 2 fresh chiles, preferably Thai, stemmed and seeded, or hot red pepper flakes, to taste

  • 1 tablespoon tamarind paste, optional

  • 2 teaspoons ground turmeric

  • 2 teaspoons ground coriander

  • 2 tablespoons corn, grapeseed or other neutral oil

  • 1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed and smashed

  • 1 quart beef, chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade, or water

  • Salt to taste

  • 1 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles

  • 1 1/2 cups bean sprouts, trimmed

  • 1 cup coconut milk

  • 4 hard-cooked eggs, sliced

  • 1/2 pound tofu, pressed and sliced

  • 1 cucumber, peeled, cut in half, seeds removed and sliced

    Directions

    Put the first 7 ingredients in a food processor or blender, and process until pasty. Put the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the curry paste and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the lemongrass and stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

    Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt. Add the noodles and bean sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the noodles are tender, about 3 minutes. Drain and transfer the noodles and bean sprouts to large serving bowls.

    Add the coconut milk to the curry soup and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and divide the soup among the bowls of noodles. Top the noodles with the eggs, tofu and cucumber, and serve.

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