The title of Melissa Clark’s new cookbook, “Chef Interrupted,” casts a new benevolent aura on its second word. Far from any impolite abruptness, here is Clark kindly intervening on behalf of home cooks everywhere, bringing the creations of top professionals within the reach of the less adept.
Her book’s cover promises “Delicious chefs’ recipes that you can actually make at home.”
“As a food writer for newspapers and magazines, a collaborator on chefs’ cookbooks, a former caterer, and an avid restaurant goer,” she says, “I know firsthand how marvelous chefs’ recipes can be.
“But also I know that many are an awful pain in the neck.”
Translating – essentially interrupting recipes – is something she has often done and now she carries it further by finding some of the best dishes of stellar chefs across the country, then “nipping and tucking at the overly complicated parts, until all that remains is the brilliant essence of a dish, without all the hassle.”
Here’s a quickly made example, from the book’s varied selection of more than 100 recipes adapted from the dishes of 50 famous chefs.
Based on a dish created by David Pasternack, of New York City’s Esca, the recipe focuses on swordfish, with its meaty flavor heightened only by a garlicky broccoli rabe. Chef’s tip: Swordfish is flavorful and firm, making it ideal for high-heat cooking methods like grilling and searing. For this recipe you could substitute one-inch-thick tuna or mahi-mahi steaks – just make sure your fish is firm and tight-fleshed, with no fishy odor.
Seared Swordfish With Stewed Sicilian-Style Broccoli Rabe
(Preparation 30 minutes)
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
In a large skillet over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, a large pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook until fragrant, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add the thicker broccoli rabe stems and wine, cover and cook until half-tender, 5 to 6 minutes.
Add the rest of the broccoli rabe and cook, uncovered, for 6 more minutes, until very tender. Uncover the pan, add the olives, and cook for a few more minutes to evaporate the remaining liquid.
Stir in the lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with another tablespoon of olive oil and set aside to keep warm, or heat gently just before serving.
Heat large skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Season the swordfish steaks with salt and pepper. Drizzle each with 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil per side (4 tablespoons total). Place the fish in the hot skillet and cook for 4 to 6 minutes on each side.
Serve immediately, with the broccoli rabe.
Makes 4 servings.
