Driving through Boulder last summer in search of munchies for an impromptu picnic, I noticed a fence painted a bright blur of greens, reds and yellows.
A tarot shop, or perhaps an indie movie store.
Then I saw the outdoor tables and people milling about, and realized we’d hit the jackpot: Snarf’s, a local hangout.
From the moment we parked in front of the rainbow fence, it was obvious this isn’t your run-of-the-mill joint. Little larger than a train car, the restaurant has room for a counter, a few stools and a cooler full of drinks.
A chalkboard holds the menu, music blares and bumper stickers on windows and counters shout “One Love” and “I want my democracy now!” This is a college town, after all, and Snarf’s fits right in.
The menu is small, with nearly 20 sandwiches, a handful of salads and soups of the day. Sandwiches are offered in three sizes: novice (four-inch, $4.50), snarf (seven-inch, $5.50) and pro (12- inch, $8.25).
Made on French bread, they come in standard combinations like turkey and Swiss and not-so-standard like artichoke, feta and provolone. The pizzazz comes from a brief stint under the broiler, which melts the cheese, crisps the crust and harmonizes the flavors.
Sure, you could get a toasted sandwich at a chain near you, but after one bite you’ll relish the trek to Boulder.
Sandwiches come with the works: shredded lettuce, tomatoes, onions, razor-thin pickles, oil, seasonings, mayonnaise, mustard and hot peppers.
Picky eaters are encouraged to make the leap of faith, for the result amounts to more than the sum of its parts. “We get a lot of people coming in who say, ‘Can I have that special sauce that you put on it last time?”‘ says manager Quincy Sawyer. “There is no special sauce,” she adds with a laugh.
In addition to the homemade soups of the day (including an excellent highly spiced chili), five salads round out the menu.
On my latest visit we tried the Cobb ($6.65), with heaps of romaine, avocado and strips of American and provolone. There’s no turkey or ham, however, so read the menu carefully when you order.
Once I asked the manager about the restaurant’s name. It’s lingo, she said, for eating something quickly. One trip to Snarf’s and you’ll understand why the name is so apt.
Gretchen Kurtz is a Denver freelance writer.
Snarf’s
AMERICAN|2049 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-7766 (5340 Arapahoe Road, 1087 14th St., both in Boulder) |$1.05-$9|
11 a.m.-11 p.m. every day
Front burner: Sandwiches are big enough for two meals, and soups are homemade.
Back burner: Lines can be long and most of the seating is outdoors.
