So there we are, cruising east on a slightly snowy Interstate 70, when my buddy suggests we stop in Edwards for a bite at this place she and her husband had stumbled on some time ago.
We pulled off the road and, a few dozen blocks later, into the parking lot of the Smiling Moose.
I usually have an aversion to fast-food joints, especially ones that specialize in sandwiches. That is, not until I had an incredible meatball monster with marinara, grilled green peppers and melted provolone on a toasted roll that tasted like it had been baked that morning.
We each had a bowl of soup (cup, $2.95; bowl, $4.95; take home, $8.95). She tried the lobster bisque, a special, and for me, the cream of tomato basil. Both were deliciously silky smooth, nice and buttery and soul-warming on a wickedly cold winter day.
That’s right: lobster bisque. The other soup options were chicken noodle, chicken enchilada and hearty vegetable – all made on the premises.
We deliberately ordered whole sandwiches, knowing we would eat half and polish off the rest once she was back in Boulder and I had landed safely in Denver.
On the way out the cashier overheard me say that I wished there was a Smiling Moose in Denver. “There is,” he volunteered. “On Colfax, down by some hospitals,” he added.
Within days I was at 727 Colorado Blvd., tucked into the corner of a little U-shaped shopping area between Seventh and Eighth avenues on the west side of the street.
In Edwards I had had a tough time deciding between the meatball sandwich and the Mighty Mo, a cheeseburger sub loaded with American cheese, diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, chopped onions, mayonnaise, oil and vinegar.
This visit was a no-brainer: Mighty Mo (one size, $7.75), enough for a linebacker, two nurses or one reporter. Not bad for someone who doesn’t like sandwiches.
Vegetarians needn’t feel slighted. Especially appealing is the Hippie Chick, a refreshing combination of ground chickpeas, tahini, avocado, lettuce, sliced cukes, cilantro and cheddar cheese.
The Green Thumb, featuring spinach, artichokes, roasted red peppers, mushrooms, olive and sunflower seeds with melted Swiss was another showstopper.
Not only are there all manner of meat-and-cheese, mix-and-match options, there are more than a half-dozen breads. Build your own sandwich layered between sourdough, whole wheat, multigrain, bagel, focaccia, baguette or plain, spinach, whole wheat or red chile tortillas.
There are also meaty and meatless breakfast sandwiches. To avoid indecisiveness next time, snatch up a takeout menu. On the cover is a wonderfully goofy moose that indeed seems to be smiling.
There is nothing goofy, however, about the food at the Smiling Moose. And with nothing on the menu more than $7.95, you can leave smiling too.
Smiling Moose Deli
GOURMET DELI|Denver, 727 Colorado Blvd., 303-333-3354; Edwards (Exit 163), 1170 Edwards Village Blvd., 970-926-2400 |$3.99-$7.95 | 6:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday; 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m. weekends. Off-street parking both locations.
Front burner: Fresh, flavorful, generous gourmet deli fare.
Back burner: Inadequate parking in Denver.
