A meal at Vincenza’s begins with half a loaf of ciabiatta. My nonna, bless her heart, couldn’t have made it better – the crust so crispy and the inside perfectly soft and slightly chewy.
South Beach dieters, beware: You’ll be tempted to eat every crumb, but save some for the rest of the diners.
Or tote some home. To-go boxes are nearly as plentiful as penne here, where the portions are huge.
The signature Pizza Grosse ($5.95) – topped with artichoke hearts, feta cheese, olives, tomatoes and spinach – is gently spiced, allowing each ingredient to shine on its own. Slices nearly the size of yield signs are pre-made, then heated before being brought to the table.
Eggplant Parmigiano ($13.95) is thinly sliced and succulent. It’s a hard dish to serve; eggplants are a finicky vegetable. The skin can be tough and the flesh bitter.
But Vincenza’s rendition was better than good. Three large pieces cloaked in breading stayed crisp even though they were happily smothered in melted cheese and red sauce.
A friend raved about that red sauce, which also drenched her bowl of rigatoni and meatballs ($5.95). I prefer a more robust marinara with pasta, and if you feel the same, you might visit during the dinner hours, when Pasta Diavolo ($10.95) is served.
I tried Penne & Broccoli ($9.95), bathed in a white wine and cream sauce that was well spiced with a nice consistency. Noodles and cannelloni beans boosted the minestrone ($1.95 for a cup, $3.95 a bowl), but I found the broth a bit bland.
Many in the lunch crowd ordered panini (about $7.95) made with Italian sausage, meatballs or cold cuts. The restaurant also serves Caesar salads, a variety of appetizers and calzones.
Vincenza’s serves breakfast and dinner, too.
The evening menu expands the lunch choices with more pastas, including the Diavolo and gnocchi; steaks; a variety of chicken dishes; and a larger selection of fish entrees.
Housed in the old Wheat Ridge dairy, the restaurant is homey in a sort of nonna-centric way. Fruit-adorned plastic covers the tables, and a TV propped on a stand guards the door of the back dining room.
While the lunch hour is busy, the service is brisk.
After you’ve transferred the leftovers into little white boxes, visit the bakery. You’ll want to buy bread and sample the cookies and cakes. Seasonal favorites share display space with the delectable pignoli cookies, miniature cream puffs, eclairs and cannolis. I confess my bakery bill was greater than the lunch tab, but I swear I shared.
Staff writer Cynthia J. Pasquale can be reached at 303-820-1722 or cpasquale@denverpost.com.
Vincenza’s
Italian bakery and deli|8000 W. 44th Ave., Wheat Ridge; 303-420-8400 |$5.95 to $28.95|Open daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays. Visa, MC
Front burner: A tasty array of Italian classics, from pizza to pasta.
Back burner: Portions are enormous, which could be a problem if you belong to the Clean Plate Club.
