On first approach, La Casa de Manuel is hardly inviting. From the street, it looks like an abandoned building. There’s a dilapidated patio and a few scattered cars in the weed-filled lot. It looks like the lights are off.
Park and wander inside, and you’ll find the interior isn’t winning decor awards either. Although the oversized murals cheer up the space and the red-tile floors and vinyl booths are perfectly adequate, it’s definitely not cozy or chic.
But diners, mostly regulars, seek this north-of-downtown dive for the delicious and unfussy Mexican food.
The signature dish is the addictive wet burrito – bean, beef or a combo of both smothered in Manuel Silva’s runny green chile, topped with cheese, lettuce and tomato.
The chile is more watery than most Mexican restaurants in Denver, but is still packed with flavor and large chunks of pork. After finishing your burrito, dump a side of beans and rice in the leftover soupy goodness, and heap on a tortilla. If you happen to come on one of the days when the cook is roasting green chiles, your eyes will be watering the rest of the day.
The salsa is also thin but fresh and tasty with puréed tomato, onion and jalepeño. There’s no consistency with the heat though; some days it’s mild and others it’s smokin’ hot. The place could improve its bland, commercial chips, however.
Bypassing the wet burrito is difficult, but there are other rewards on the menu. The barbacoa tacos are three rolled corn tortillas filled with the flavorful beef. Squeeze a lemon on top and eat with a fork, piling on the accompanying lettuce, tomato, onion and cilantro.
The hulking tamales aren’t pretty to look at but are dense and satisfying, especially when smothered. The enchiladas are standard Mexican fare, but covered with a thick red sauce. Order the chili con queso, and instead of a bowl of dip you’ll get three tostada shells smothered in the mild but delicious cheese sauce.
Casa has been cooking up Mexican staples for almost 50 years, operating out of a space at 20th and Larimer streets for the bulk of its history. When Coors Field opened and rents skyrocketed, the Casa relocated 11 blocks north to a mixed-use neighborhood still in transition.
For downtown workers, getting there requires a car, and that inconvenience means the place is never very busy. One super-efficient waitress handles the dozen or so tables. Even driving from the heart of downtown, you can easily fit a Casa run into your lunch hour with minutes to spare.
The charming service also includes child-rearing advice – the waitress suggested I try giving my fussy baby some bean juice as her first food – and a recognition of past patrons. In fact, stop in a few times, and she’ll stop bringing you a menu and know your usual.
After 5 p.m., I’m inclined to have a margarita or beer with my Mexican food. But you’ll have to go elsewhere. La Casa has no liquor license.
La Casa de Manuel
Mexican | 3158 Larimer St.;
303-295-1752 | $1.40-$9.50 |
11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Monday-
Saturday. Closed Sundays. MC &
Visa. Parking lot.
Front burner: Leave stuffed
and happy for less than $4.
Back burner: Avoid the bathrooms
if possible.
