Originally named the Wheeler National Monument in honor of Capt. George Wheeler, Colorado’s first national monument has had a checkered career. After gaining the distinction in 1908, the designation was taken away in 1950 when it was transferred back to the Forest Service from the National Park Service. After being unprotected for much of its existence, the area was renamed Wheeler Geologic Area and is now part of the La Garita Wilderness.
Remote and with no easy access, it takes a special effort to visit this amazing place. Carved by the elements out of volcanic tuff, the area rewards visitors with spectacular formations of varying color and shape.
The formations reveal their grandeur best at dawn and dusk, so an overnight visit is highly recommended.
Primitive camping is available just outside the wilderness boundary, about half a mile from the area. Water is available from the nearby creek. A 6.8-mile hike gets you to Wheeler, then a 3.2-mile loop trail allows you to circumnavigate the area. This loop affords nice views of the geologic features.
If you don’t want to do the 13.6-mile round-trip hike to get here, a four-wheel-drive road is also available. The Forest Service warns that a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is required for this bumpy road, and that it becomes impassable when wet. I wouldn’t want to take my Subaru on it. The drive is approximately 14 miles each way.
While people do hike the trail both ways in a day, adding the 4 miles around the Wheeler area would be more than most people want. To include this loop – and also to maximize your photographic opportunities – try to spend at least two days for this outing.
I’ll describe the backpack approach and the loop trail around the geologic area separately.
Approach
From the well-signed trail head at Hanson’s Mill, the trail wanders gently through forested areas for the first 2.1 miles before dropping down to East Bellows Creek, marking the beginning of La Garita Wilderness. In autumn, crossing this creek is simple: One just walks across on logs and rocks. But during spring runoff, fording it reportedly can be more challenging. The remains of an old bridge indicate that you are following the Alder Stock Driveway.
The obvious trail soon leaves the East Bellows Creek drainage and heads up a series of canyons, starting with Cañon Nieve. The trail stays left at each canyon bifurcation. After approximately 3 miles, the trail climbs out of the canyons and gradually climbs through open parks and stands of trees, finally clearing the trees after a total of 4 miles. From here it is a pleasant, undulating walk across high meadows, following the well-worn trail past the occasional poles marking the way.
After 5.7 miles you will rejoin County Road 600, which has wound its way circuitously around to this point, along a corridor that cuts into the Wilderness. The last 1.1 miles follow this road west and north to the trail head for the Wheeler Geologic Area.
Hike description
Start at the well-signed trail head at the edge of the wilderness area. After 0.4 miles you will reach a trail junction. The Wheeler Loop Trail heads both to the left and straight ahead. The loop goes equally well in either direction.
Assuming you go left at this junction, you will soon reach an observation point, replete with a bench. This spot provides an outstanding view of the complex formations and is worth a visit both at sunset and sunrise. Continue on. The trail, less obvious now, climbs along the west side of the area, reaching its high point of 11,900 feet at the junction of the Half Moon Pass trail, 1.5 miles from the trailhead. From this junction the Wheeler Trail gradually descends back around the north and east side of the area, and returns to the beginning of the loop after a total distance of 2.8 miles.
