The notion that everything old is new again is as true for food and drinks as it is for other aspects of popular culture. From martinis and Manhattans to gimlets and Singapore Slings, old-fashioned potent potables deserve to be accompanied by equally classic bite- sized standards. Among them are meatballs, crab bites and the salt-baked new potato topped with sour cream and domestic caviar.
In “Bite Size,” (William Morrow, $19.95) New York’s legendary French chef Francois Payard has penned a lovely collection of canapés – as they were once called – for elegant entertaining. Many are succinct and can be prepared in advance.
(Hint: To thoroughly enjoy your party, check local culinary schools and see if students might be available to help plate, clear and clean. The expense is worth it, it won’t break the bank and the students might be able to earn credit. Plus, they’re a lot more affordable than professional caterers). So pin a gardenia in your hair, fasten those ankle straps and boogie in a new year.
Staff writer Ellen Sweets can be reached at 303-954-1284 or esweets@denverpost.com.
Crabmeat Canapés
From “Crazy for Crab” by Fred Thompson, whose luxurious contribution to the wonderful world of finger food is this elegant crabmeat canapé. It can be made a day in advance, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated. Serves 10-12.
Ingredients
Directions
Preheat broiler.
In a medium mixing bowl, thoroughly blend crabmeat, mayonnaise, lemon juice, celery, bell pepper, eggs, Tabasco and paprika.
Spread crab mixture evenly over toasts and drizzle with melted butter. Sprinkle bread crumbs evenly on top. Place on a baking sheet and broil about 4 inches from heat until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Potatoes Roasted in Salt
No proportions here, just a method, according to Roy Finamore, author of “One Potato, Two Potato.” He says there is no more elegant way of serving these potatoes than slicing them in half and topping them with a dollop of sour cream and as much caviar as you dare. For dramatic effect, alternate red and black caviar as toppings.
Ingredients
Directions
Preheat oven to 400.
Spread a layer of salt in a deep baking dish or casserole large enough to hold potatoes in a single layer. Put potatoes in dish and cover completely with more salt.
Roast potatoes 50-60 minutes or until tender. Poke them with a skewer or the tip of a small knife to check. Dump potatoes out onto a tray and knock off salt.
Slice potatoes in half and move them to a serving dish (preferably on a bed of salt). Top with a bit of sour cream and a bit of caviar.
Chilled Asparagus Soup
As a new twist on an old dinner starter, this taste of soup is a cool cocktail party offering. It can be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator. The recipe, from “Bite Size” by Francois Payard, makes enough for 20 generous shot glasses.
Ingredients
Directions
Place a large pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Fill a bowl with very cold water and ice cubes to make an ice-water bath.
While water is heating, clean asparagus by removing any brown or woody parts from tips down, and reserve tips separately. Salt boiling water and add asparagus tips. Cook until tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from water with a slotted spoon, and immediately place in ice water bath to cool.
Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add shallots and leeks and cook until soft, 4-5 minutes. Add asparagus bottoms, cover and cook for another 5-10 minutes. Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 30 minutes.
Prepare a second water bath in a bowl large enough to contain another one. Transfer soup to a blender and purée until smooth. Season it with salt and pepper, and pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Immediately place bowl into ice-water bath to rapidly cool soup. Stir in 1/4 cup cream. You can refrigerate the soup if you want, but it should be cold enough from the water bath.
Using a hand-held whisk or an electric mixer, whisk remaining 1/2 cup cream, lime zest and a pinch of salt in a bowl until soft peaks form.
Divide soup among shot glasses, filling each about 2/3 full. Garnish each glass with 2 asparagus tips and a small spoonful of lime cream. Arrange on a platter and serve chilled.
Cherry Tomatoes Filled with Goat Cheese
From “Bite Size” by Francois Payard. Although a perfect summer hors d’ouevre, this happy mouthful lends color and a touch of piquancy to the holiday table. Baby tomatoes on the stem are recommended for this little dish. Makes 20.
Ingredients
Directions
Cut off top of each tomato with a sharp knife (or a tomato knife if you have one), taking care to preserve stems. Set tops aside. Using a small melon baller scoop out and discard tomato pulp. In a bowl, whisk goat cheese and olive oil until mixture is smooth. Stir in green onion, basil, tarragon, black pepper and salt. Place cheese mixture in a plastic pastry bag or a resealable plastic bag, and cut a 1/4-inch opening in a corner. You can prepare cheese a few hours before your party and keep it refrigerated, but it is best to place it in bag and pipe it shortly before serving.
Season inside of each tomato with salt. Pipe enough of cheese mixture into each tomato so that filling is just coming up past the top. Replace tomato top and arrange on a platter.
Note: To make a basil chiffonade, place leaves on top of one another to make a little pile. Roll the pile tightly, and then cut across it in very thin slices.
Keftedes (Tiny Greek Meatballs)
Ellen Sweets writes: When I lived in England, my husband often held small-group seminars with his graduate students, some of whom would bring snacks from their respective countries. The lamb and beef meatballs his Greek student brought were particularly popular. The meat mixture can be made a day or hours in advance and refrigerated until ready to use. This recipe serves 8-10.
Ingredients
Directions
Preheat oven to 300. Using your hands, knead meat, onion and bread in a large mixing bowl. Drop eggs in and continue to knead. Blend in parsley, mint, oregano and garlic. Add vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Allow mixture to sit at least and hour and a half. Shape into 1 1/4-inch balls and dust lightly in flour. Bake 15-20 minutes, or until meatballs are done. Drain on paper towels and serve.
