My first taste of Thai cuisine came when I was a freshman in high school. My good friend’s mother had brought home carryout and offered me a bite.
I was hesitant, because I wasn’t the most adventurous eater in the early ’80s and Thailand seemed beyond exotic. But when I tried the transparent, tangy noodles, I was hooked, and it helped kickstart my culinary diversity.
The Pad Thai I tasted that day was from Erawan Café, a small, unassuming storefront across the street from the University of Colorado hospital. Turns out, Erawan is still in that spot. It’s the longest-operating Thai restaurant in Denver, now going on 29 years.
After years of eating Thai in some of America’s best foodie cities – San Francisco, New York, Washington, D.C. – as well as Bangkok, I figured I should go back and see how the fare from my first experience measured up.
Not surprisingly, Erawan now sits next to a Starbucks. But wandering inside provides a completely different aesthetic. White tablecloths cover the dozen or so tables. Wood beams angle upward to give the feel of entering a Thai temple. Images of elephants abound, but not in a tacky way. It’s quiet and serene, especially since we were the only ones in the place – except the chef and waitress – at 8 p.m. on a Friday.
Chef and owner Arthur Suthithanin upgraded the space less than a year ago, and the results are unexpectedly attractive. This could be a great little date spot.
Your luckiest bets here are sticking with Thai favorites. The Pad Thai that introduced me to the flavors of Southeast Asia is still solid, although it could use a squeeze of lime to give it more depth. The green and red curries are creamy and subtle layered over chicken, eggplant and rice, but order it hotter than you normally would. I had to pick out the small but tasty shrimp in the Shrimp Sriracha, which came with a swath of unrecognizable beige veggies.
The Sate Chicken at Erawan is listed under entrees and is presented not on skewers, but over rice with the traditional peanut sauce. One appetizer we tried, the Thai Delight dumplings, was so crispy it was on the verge of being overcooked. And after a few slurps, I left the rest of my bland Tom-Yum-Gai soup uneaten.
Erawan also serves several old-school Chinese dishes, like Moo-Goo-Gai Pan, Egg Foo Young and Chop Suey.
Chef Suthithanin promises Erawan will soon have its liquor license, and he plans to serve wine as well as beer from Thailand and China. Until then, the teapot is welcoming on these chilly days.
Erawan won’t measure up to top Thai restaurants here or elsewhere. But like any first, it’s always memorable.
Staff writer Rebecca Risch can be reached at 303-954-1913 or rrisch@denverpost.com.
Erawan Café
Thai and Chinese|3919 E. Eighth Ave. Denver; 303-388-3226| $1.25-$12.95|Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., closed Sundays; Mastercard and Visa
Front burner: The small staff is welcoming, and service is friendly.
Back burner: If you like a bustling scene, you won’t find it here.
