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Getting your player ready...

Domaine de Pouy 2006 Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne, about $10

Ugni blanc gets a bad rap. There’s the mere sound of the grape – pronounced in French, it sounds like little more than a grunt followed by “blah” – and the fact that its main claim to fame is as one of the base grapes for Cognac. But in the hands of Yves Grassa, who blends it here with another local variety called colombard, it makes a bright, zingy little white that’s built for spring drinking, from evening aperitifs with cold, crisp snap peas to dinners of roast asparagus and spinach salads.

Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.|Tara Q. Thomas

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