Everyone has an idea of what Mexican food should be. My 10-year-old thinks it’s – ick – Taco Bell. (She’s still young; she’ll learn.) My Texas-born buddy TJ fell in love with Chevy’s, with its Tex-Mex blend of flavors and smoky, pureed tomato salsa blended with cilantro and roasted peppers.
I’m still waiting to be impressed. Because when you get down to it, most Mexican food is predictable (and too often forgettable). Once you get past the traditional wrapped burritos, chile rellenos, enchiladas, tostadas and chimichangas, there is little in the way of surprises. Sometimes the only variety you can find is in the salsa: hot, mild, red, green.
Yawn.
Lime XS, an offshoot of the Larimer Square restaurant (XS, for extra small), prides itself on being different. And that’s not always a good thing.
On the plus side: The wait staff is exceptional, friendly and eager to please. The ingredients are fresh, the meats delicately flavored. The chefs pay attention to the details, beginning with generous portions of flour tortilla chips made fresh every day and served warm, with sufficiently hot, cilantro-
tinged salsa that is zesty but not aggressive.
For an appetizer, try the edamame ($4.95), steamed beans sprinkled with seasoning and served with chipotle lime dipping sauce. They do what appetizers should: They satisfy, but don’t overwhelm.
It’s obvious that presentation matters at Lime. The sweet corn tamales ($5.95 for two as appetizers, $7.95 for lunch) are almost too pretty to dig into. Once you do, however, you’ll be pleased with the delicate blend of sweet and hot, topped with green chile with a little kick. The scorpions are a thing of beauty: four jumbo shrimp layered on jalapeño halves and stuffed with cheese, then breaded and fried, arranged on a pool of red chile and drizzled with ribbons of sour cream ($8.50 for appetizers, $12.95 entree). And the flavor is kapow.
Sadly, the “dos enchiladas” ($7.50) and chimichangas ($8.95) could both use some punching up.
The lunch menu also includes soup and quesadilla ($5.95), a breakfast burrito ($6.95) and beef, chicken, pork ($7.50) or ahi tuna ($8) tacos.
Which brings us to the forgettable: Lime’s black beans are bland; the chile slaw looks (and tastes) dry and anemic; and the rice is just blah. Side dishes should complement a meal; these pathetic three just take up space. Skip ’em.
For dessert, the Key lime pie is acceptable, but the crust was somewhat mushy, and the fresh whipped cream much too runny. And at $4.95 for a small slice, it isn’t cheap.
If you can get away with it, try a Lime margarita; it makes everything taste just a little better.
Staff writer Barbara Ellis can be reached at 303-954-1751 or bellis@denverpost.com
| Lime XS
Mexican|730 E. Sixth Ave. 303-722-5463| $3.50-$14.95|Sun.-Wed. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Major credit cards; patio dining (along noisy street); takeout menu; parking. Second location, 1424 Larimer St., 303-893-5463
Front burner: Tortilla chips made fresh in house; presentation above average
Back burner: Seating should be more comfortable; tables are closely jammed together.
