Here’s a daydream most people can relate to:
You’re sitting on a beach, sipping a tropical drink and snacking on an exotic treat with the smell of the ocean and the sounds of reggae, calypso or reggaetón in the air.
Every day is a good day in the islands – or maybe it just seems that way when your reality is bill-paying, to-do lists and high-volume traffic.
A visit to 8 Rivers Restaurant is a must on those days, when the allure of the tropics feels overwhelming.
Diners will know they’re near this North Denver Caribbean eatery when they spot the Red Stripe buckets on the sidewalk filled with water for the pooches who trot past the patio, hear the all-reggae radio station on the speakers, and inhale the aroma of commingling spices that wafts out to the street.
If positive vibrations don’t immediately overtake anyone who grabs a seat, they will after a visitor reads through the menu. It includes a prominent salute to Bob Marley on the cover followed by the story behind the jerk seasoning that owner-chef Scott Durrah gleaned from a small town “just outside of Port Antonio, Jamaica, high in the hills, overlooking the most beautiful water in the world.”
The easygoing island sensations only grow stronger once visitors to 8 Rivers sip the dirty mojito ($6) muddled with light rum, dark rum, sugar cane and mint. And the refreshing, rose-colored berry sangria ($5) also provides a tropical getaway in a glass.
Keep the irie fantasy going with an order of crispy crab fritters ($9), an appetizer that takes a step away from traditional crab cakes by arriving with big chunks of mango salsa. Other tempting starters include Escovitch shrimp ($7) fried in a spicy Scotch bonnet batter, and jerk chicken and pineapple pizza (6-inch, $8).
Anyone fond of big, bold flavor must try one of 8 Rivers’ jerk dishes. Tangy jerk chicken ($9/$15) is the restaurant’s signature dish, but moist jerk pork loin ($9/$15) served with mango cranberry dressing is a great alternative.
Lunch is the time for foodies on a budget to drop into this spot, as most of the entrees feature reduced midday prices. The island vibe echoes through dishes like stewed oxtails served with butter beans ($8/$15), and tropical chicken ($9/$16), a savory twist on cordon bleu with baked plantain wrapped in a chicken breast and served with a sweet sauce. But this kitchen really pulls out the stops at dinner. Curried shrimp ($17), brown stewed fish ($17) and grilled smoked salmon with a white cream dill sauce ($17) are just a few of its high notes.
If Caribbean food is completely new to you, consider ordering a combination plate with 8 Rivers’ traditional dishes, which the courteous staff will kindly assemble for an additional $3.
8 Rivers Restaurant
Caribbean café|3609 W. 32nd Ave., Denver, 303-477-1126|
|$3.50-$23|Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m. and Friday until 10 p.m.; Saturday noon-10 p.m.; Sunday noon-9 p.m.; closed on Monday.
Front burner: Spicy food lovers will swoon over 8 Rivers’ jerk seasoning boasting 14 spices and Scotch bonnet peppers – a recipe gleaned from Boston Bay, Jamaica.
Back burner: This tiny dining room lends itself to friendly interaction with the staff but would not be ideal for parties larger than four.
