I remember the first time I went to Table 6.
It was 2 1/2 years ago, when I was flirting with The Denver Post about this job, and my soon-to-be editor took me there for dinner to grill me about why he should hire me.
I remember three things about that dinner: One, I was sweating buckets. Two, I split a hole in the side of my khakis when I sat down and spent the rest of the meal dreading standing back up. Three, I really liked the rabbit.
Since then, I’ve been back to
Table 6 a generous handful of times. And even though the rabbit isn’t on the menu these days, I’ve really liked (almost) everything else I’ve had there.
Tucked into a stretch of Corona Street that’s as pretty as it is hard to find a parking space on, Table 6 sends a low, flickering glow across its sidewalk, all candlelight, exposed brick and polished glass. It’s an inviting tableau, at once comfy and stylish, laid-back and tucked-in, cozy and chic.
This isn’t so much a special-occasion restaurant (although it would work for a special occasion) as it is a once-a-weeker, for nights when you don’t want to cook but also can’t face another trip to Noodles & Co. A cut above, but not out of reach.
You’ll be seated promptly because even if it has a come-as-you-are quality, you’ve made a reservation at Table 6.
Set aside your menu for a moment in favor of the wine list, which offers a healthy roster of by-the-glass pours. In fact, the wine list here is one of Denver’s hidden-gem lists – broad, clever and affordable, which is saying something in this neighborhood of appallingly overpriced wine. (You other Cap Hill joints with only one or two glasses under $10 know who you are, and so do I.) Choose something bubbly to sip on while you peruse the menu.
The menu at Table 6 changes with some frequency, but some dishes seem to stick around.
One of them, duck confit with fixin’s tweaked for the season (latest: grilled endive, pear and hazelnuts) is at first glance a little bit fancier than you might expect in this otherwise unassuming little bistro, until you remember that duck confit is among France’s simplest country dishes: a succulent duck leg poached in, kept in and then removed from, fat.
In other words, a lovely Tuesday night supper, especially when paired with a soft pinot noir.
If duck puts you off, choose the chicken fricassee, half a crispy-skinned chicken perched on a soulful stack of chanterelles and green beans and surrounded by little dauphine-nuggets of citrus-kissed and deep-fried pureed potatoes.
One of the least expensive entrées on the menu, a split pork shank with white beans and mustard greens, is also the least-good value; underseasoned and overloaded with filler, this dish, while unique in Denver (not too many places serve pork shank), was clunky and devoid of subtlety.
Choose whatever fish is on hand instead, particularly if it’s striped bass or halibut, which will be delicate but not precious.
If you’re starving, choose the grilled ribeye with garlic chips and risotto over the braised leg of lamb with ricotta pierogi.
Not that it needs to be, but the kitchen is more creative with its appetizers. Topping out on the whimsy chart was the butter-poached shrimp served with popcorn and caramel sauce.
You read that correctly. Shrimp with popcorn and caramel sauce. It’s a kooky combination but in step with the sweet-
on-savory food trend that’s captivating the coasts, and for me it worked. (Others at my table were more skeptical.) Take a gamble on this one if you have an extra $9 to throw down.
Another fine appetizer, which would frankly make an ample supper in itself, was the quartet of lamb reuben sliders with sauerkraut, which were flavorful and filling, with fresh-but-sturdy rolls. And I’d be happy, too, to make a light meal of black figs with grilled pancetta-laced shortbread and a glass or two of prosecco.
Dessert? Get the beignets, light and yeasty, and skip the sticky toffee pudding cake, too sweet by a mile.
Back to wine: Besides the general list (which is intelligently assembled and managed) there is a reserve list onsite with high-roller bottles worth sampling if your wallet’s feeling heavy. Just ask.
If I have one pointed piece of criticism for the kitchen at Table 6, it’s this: Occasionally Table 6 overreaches on a dish, not in the ability of the chefs to pull it off, but in the context of the physical space it’s served in. To wit: “pot of foie” (foie gras) with plum jelly and grilled bread, just too decadent and fancy-pantsy for this restaurant.
If I had another piece of criticism, it would be this: Please stop putting pink salt on your butter, or at least make it an at-table option rather than a default. I know everyone in town does it, but it’s a tired trend, ready for retirement.
Bottom line: Table 6, like Duo in the Highland neighborhood and Tables over in Park Hill, is a reliable, well-executed bistro, at its best when you live around the corner and can walk home hand-in-hand, a bellyful of duck confit and pinot noir.
Tucker Shaw: 303-954-1958 or dining@denverpost.com
Table Six
Contemporary American 609 Corona St., 303-831-8800
*** Great
Atmosphere: Intimate, friendly, stylish neighborhood bistro
Service: Knowledgeable. Not overly indulgent, but professional
Wine: Serviceable, affordable, reliable, sometimes-surprising list
Plates: Appetizers $9-$14; entrees $17-22; $30 for steak
Hours: 5 p.m.-close, seven days
Details: All major credit cards accepted. Street parking. Great for dates. Excellent walk-to regular spot for locals.
Five visits
Our star system:
****: Excellent
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
