Dori Kaufman started planning what she hoped would be the trip of a lifetime — an African safari — nine months in advance. She worked with a travel agent well versed in safaris to craft the perfect itinerary for her family.
“I was really excited, until about one month prior to leaving,” said Kaufman. “Then I looked at a map and saw that one place we were staying in Zambia was right across the river from Zimbabwe.”
Zimbabwe’s acute economic unrest was just the first item on what became a laundry list of concerns. “I began to worry about cleanliness, whether I’d find scorpions in my shoes or be trampled by wild elephants, what we would eat and drink.”
Kaufman and her husband also became apprehensive for their 14-year-old daughter’s safety, leading to a last-minute rush to draft wills. “I felt we were headed for something worse than a Third World experience. I arrived at the airport with a suitcase filled entirely with medication. I looked like a representative for a pharmaceutical company.”
The Kaufmans, who live in San Diego, aren’t alone in assuming an African safari is a dodgy venture. But that perspective is in stark contrast with another: Tourism to Africa is booming, even by wary Americans.
With three decades of instability behind it, Uganda’s tourism numbers swelled from 193,000 (in 2000) to 512,000 (2004). Despite a travel warning from the U.S. State Department in 2003, visitors to Kenya rose from 1.1 million (in 2003) to 1.5 million two years later. Americans traveling to South Africa have increased by 11 percent annually for the past three years, and returning visitors to that country exceed 30 percent of total arrivals, hinting at an unusually high number of presumably satisfied tourists.
Many travelers have apprehensions about their first African safari. Here are some of the misconceptions that African tour operators, government representatives and lodge managers say they regularly confront.
Myth: Africa is rife with civil wars and poverty.
Reality check: “People don’t know how to separate these countries; they see all Africa as one,” says Norman Pieters, chairman of Miami-based Karell’s African Dream (karell ), who has been selling safaris for 35 years.
Americans long have had difficulty recognizing the world’s second-largest continent as being made up of 53 individual countries. Although a number of them have problems, the issues of one typically aren’t related to those of another.
“When the news shows problems in Darfur, Sudan, some people drop their plans to visit South Africa,” says Kent Redding, president of Denver-based Africa Adventure Consultants (). “South Africa is thousands of miles away from Sudan, and a world apart in terms of safety.”
Alan Moore, recently retired Los Angeles consul for South Africa, acknowledges that currently there are civil wars in Somalia and Sudan. “But the trend in Africa is very definitely for democratic elections and toward political stability,” says Moore.
Prospective visitors have a responsibility to stay abreast of the destinations. Work with established operators who travel regularly to the countries they sell, and be sure to read U.S. State Department Travel Warnings (), which, for example are in effect for Kenya right now, but not for neighboring Tanzania or Uganda.
Myth: I have to sleep in a hut.
Reality check: Redding says the most common anxiety he hears from prospective travelers is that they will have to sleep in a hut with no running water or toilet. In fact, Africa possesses some of the world’s most luxurious and romantic accommodations, often with a level of service that goes well beyond that of a typical five-star American hotel. A number of safari lodges are affiliated with such high-end chains as Relais & Château, Abercrombie & Kent, and Leading Hotels of the World.
In South Africa and Kenya, most lodges are brick and mortar, with all the amenities of a U.S. National Park lodge and sometimes much more. In Uganda, several old government lodges have been privatized and upgraded. But even tented accommodations in “the bush” often are beautifully designed and feature all of the basic creature comforts.
For example, located deep in Botswana’s Okavango Delta and accessed only by small plane, the handsome tents at Vumbura Plains are bigger than many hotel suites — 947 square feet, plus expansive decks — and have showers and a private plunge pool. Operated by Wilderness Safaris (wilderness-safaris.com), rack rates start at $940 per person.
“You can sleep in a hut if you really want to,” says Redding. “But few people do.”
Myth: Safaris are too costly.
Reality check: Although land costs in Africa have risen dramatically in the past few years, primarily due to demand, there are ways to keep them down.
“There’s a place in the market for people who normally take Caribbean cruises,” says Pieters. “The more flying around you do makes it expensive. So the place to go on a budget is South Africa; you fly straight in and stay within the country.” Karell offers an itinerary that includes four nights in Cape Town, two in Johannesburg, and two in Kruger National Park with game drives, starting at $2,612, including airfare.
The Victoria Falls area is the adventure tourism capital of Africa, and another place to keep costs down. Although a la carte wildlife excursions can add up, prices for meals and lodging in Livingston, Zambia are mostly reasonable.
A big part of what one pays for is access: Per-person fees for national parks can add up, ranging from $10 for Namibia’s Etosha National Park to $500 for a one-hour gorilla-viewing permit in Rwanda and Uganda. In Botswana, Vumbura Plains charges the prices it does because the lodge has exclusive access to one of the Okavango’s finest game-viewing areas.
Fully supported group camping trips are an option. While these aren’t suited to everyone, they make pricey Botswana accessible to moderate budgets. High-end lodge operator Wilderness Safaris handles seven-night trips through Botswana for $2,630; its chief competitor, Conservation Corp. Africa (ccafrica.com) does 10 days for 2,900-$3,440.
The nonprofit Earthwatch Institute (earthwatch.org) offers a surprising variety of African trips, all focused on research of one animal or region — lemurs in Madagascar, the Tsavo lions of Kenya. The 12- to 16-day itineraries average $175-$250 a day and involve some work. The Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre (wildlifecentre.co.za/lsp.htm), located on the edge of Kruger, has a 21-day program working with cheetahs and other animals; $1,761 includes meals, shared accommodations at Nungu Camp and some sightseeing. Lonely Planet just published a guide to volunteerism with suggestions for working vacations in the African bush.
In some cases, flying around — via Europe, that is — makes sense. Nonstop flights from the United States to Johannesburg are convenient for southern Africa, but there are more flight options using a connection through European hubs. While the routing adds several hours to the itinerary, the more vigorous competition can shave hundreds off your flights. But air service from the States direct is on the increase — Delta flies Atlanta-Johannesburg daily.
Myth: I’m going to contract HIV/AIDS or fall ill with a tropical disease.
Reality check: Although several African countries have unusually high incidences of AIDS, the primary way to prevent it is to follow the same precautions one would at home: Avoid unprotected sexual contact and unverified blood sources.
“If one engages in risky sexual behavior, one is at risk,” says Moore, who adds that in South Africa, any blood used for transfusions is carefully screened. “Our hospitals are known to have very high standards of cleanliness.” Before departure, obtain a list of recommended doctors for the countries you are visiting from the tour operator or the local U.S. embassies and consulates ().
The disease to be most concerned with is malaria, communicated through the bite of an infected mosquito. Although malaria is potentially fatal, the threat of contracting it is almost eliminated by using prophylactics such as Lariam or Malarone. Mosquito repellants containing DEET, sleeping under a mosquito net (which virtually all safari lodges provide), wearing long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and traveling outside the wet season provide additional protection.
For those preferring to avoid Lariam or Malarone — drugs with potential side effects — you can limit your travel to areas where malaria is not present. Most of South Africa is actually malaria-free, though not Kruger National Park, the country’s top game-viewing area.
Africa hosts an array of tropical diseases, and a travel health specialist should be consulted at least a month prior to travel. They will probably recommend a hepatitis A vaccination; also verify that typhoid, tetanus and polio vaccinations are up-to-date. Otherwise, far and away the worst health issue most travelers to Africa confront is a bout of diarrhea, a hazard largely avoided by sticking to bottled water (most safari lodges use treated water when preparing meals).
Myth: Africa isn’t an option for independent travelers.
Reality check: Self-drive tours are easy to assemble in several countries, starting again with South Africa, where visitors can rent a car and drive to Kruger (six hours from Johannesburg), where there are both top-drawer luxury lodges on private reserves (rates including guided game drives), as well as plentiful rest camps with stand-alone cottages.
Accommodations inside Kruger () range from bare campsites with power outlets ($16 per night) to permanent canvas tents ($36-$83) to bungalows and cottages with private bath and kitchen facilities, sleeping two to six people ($71-$250). Game drives and walks handled by park rangers are $15-$38 per person.
Allen Erenbaum, an L.A.- based attorney, and his wife resisted a package trip and instead constructed an independent tour through southern Africa. “It did take a little more work, but I don’t think it’s unlike travel in Europe, because the infrastructure is there,” Erenbaum said.
They rented a vehicle in Johannesburg and headed to Namibia, staying at Etosha’s Okaukuejo rest camp. Here, “luxury” bungalows cost $125 a night, meals are served in a moderately priced restaurant, and a waterhole in front is illuminated for night viewing of elephants, rhinos and giraffes.
“There were guides available, and a ranger station just like in a U.S. national park where you could get maps, find out where the best waterholes and animal viewing spots were.”
The Cardboard Box Travel Shop () and Go2Africa () are among the outfits that construct self-drive or package tours including everything from car rental to charter flights.
One important caveat about independent travel: The services of a naturalist guide — to find and safely track elusive animals — are an invaluable component of the higher-end safari lodges. At many parks, independent visitors aren’t allowed to explore off paved roads, while park rangers and lodge guides are permitted to travel off-road to view animals, as well as educate.
Myth: Africa is all about animal sightseeing.
Reality check: Whether whitewater rafting on Uganda’s Nile or exploring historic vineyards in South Africa, the diversity of experiences ranges far beyond game drives. There are superb beaches and fine diving and snorkeling along the coasts of Kenya and Tanzania. Opulent train trips like the Rovos Rail () offer another route to explore the countryside.
“The biggest thing people who haven’t been to Africa say is, ‘I’m just going for the animals,'” says Redding. “Then they come back and say ‘I loved the animals, but I enjoyed the cultural things as much or more.'” Africa Adventure Consultants handles walking safaris, including a three-night trek in Kenya with Masai warriors and staying in an authentic Masai village.
South Africa is a strong candidate for travelers seeking something beyond a safari. Highlights include a favorable year-round climate, excellent scenery, quaint coastal villages and dynamic, cosmopolitan cities such as Cape Town and Johannesburg, where the country’s epic, peaceful transition from apartheid is still unfolding.
“Swaziland has wonderful crafts and a unique culture” says Francis Mfune, Acting Executive Director of Regional Tourism Organization of Southern Africa (retosa.co.za). “Malawi has a great lake, ideal for fishermen, and Mozambique has deep sea fishing. Tanzania offers the experience of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro — the tallest mountain in Africa.”
Myth: The problems in Zimbabwe make Victoria Falls off-limits.
Reality check: During the last decade under President Robert Mugabe, Zimbabwe has emerged as one of Africa’s most unsettled nations. But the Victoria Falls area is a relative oasis of calm compared with the rest of the country. Conservation Corp. Africa continues to operate the swank Matetsi Lodge, which offers canoe trips along the elephant-lined banks of the Zambezi River, above the falls. But many travelers may not want to lend indirect financial support to the Mugabe regime.
Solution: The mile-wide spill is shared by two countries and the problems in Zimbabwe have spurred considerable development on the Zambia side, in Livingstone. The 173-room, five-star Royal Livingstone is one of several large resorts and dozens of smaller properties that bask in the mist upstream from the falls (no hotels on either side have a view of the actual falls).
“The only downside is that most people believe that the view of the falls from the Zimbabwe side is better,” says Redding. “We continue to send people on day trips across the bridge to Victoria Falls Town (in Zimbabwe), and we’ve had no problems. Foreign currency is very important, so the Mugabe government has done a reasonable job of keeping things going, and safe.”
Border areas of Zambia and South Africa may become problematic leading up to Zimbabwe’s next elections, scheduled for March 2008.
Myth: Safaris aren’t for families.
Reality check: Although safaris traditionally have been oriented to adults, tour operators and lodges are increasingly tapping into the family market by lowering age requirements and adding a learning component geared to children. Countries particularly appropriate for families include Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, but restrictions vary.
Minimum ages — ranging from 5 to 12 — are established not just for the child’s safety but also for the comfort of fellow guests who may be sharing the vehicle. Some children are not suited for game viewing, an activity that unfolds on its own schedule. A three-hour game drive may be fruitless in search of “big five” animals, and kids may not take an interest in birdlife and other aspects of the safari experience.
But families are a market many tour operators are pursuing. “It’s one of the largest growing segments of our company,” says Redding. “You can’t believe how many kids get turned on by being able to shoot a Masai spear, or learning how to milk a cow, or dressing up in a traditional African outfit.”
Governors’ Camps in Kenya () caters to families with hot air balloon safaris and visits to a local Masai village. Robin Pope Safaris in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park () designs learning programs for children age 7 and up.
Myth: Planning a safari is too hard.
Reality check: Allow ample time for planning. Although trips can be scheduled on just a few weeks’ notice, the most popular wildlife areas and camps can be sold out months in advance in peak season.
Investigate the ideal destinations for your taste and budget. The website of the Regional Tourism Offices of Southern Africa (retosa.co.za) provides in-depth background on its 14 member countries, including hard-to-research places like Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Fodor’s “African Safari” is a compact introduction to safari planning, with concise information about the major destinations.
Find a qualified travel agent who has been selling Africa for at least a few years and is familiar with a variety of options; request a client list. Grant Cummings, owner of Chiawa Camp in Zambia, says that although he earns a higher profit margin from direct bookings (rather than paying a commission to travel agents), it’s usually not in the interest of his clients to do so.
“You can’t just shop for a safari on the Web,” says Cummings. “Any bozo with a good Web master can do a fancy website. It’s a big commitment of time and money to go on safari, so you’re better off talking with a knowledgeable tour operator.”
Insiders’ guide
With most safari destinations located in the Southern Hemisphere, their winter is our summer, and vice-versa. In general, the rainy season in southern Africa starts in November or December and continues through March. This is also the hottest period. Correspondingly, dawn and dusk game drives can be quite cold in winter. East African countries, being on or near the equator, don’t have extreme temperature ranges, and there are two short rainy seasons — April-May and November-December.
But in planning a safari, weather isn’t the only concern when it comes to making sure you’re at the right place at the right time. For instance, the flora in southern Africa is prettiest at the end of rainy season. But tall grasses and thick shrub can obscure animals from view; in dry season, grasses get tamped down and leaves drop, allowing for better sightings.
Lodging prices rise during peak game viewing periods, a consideration for wallet-conscious travelers.
Seasonal highlights around the region include:
For elephant: Though pachyderms are common throughout southern and eastern Africa, aficionados go to Botswana’s Chobe National Park August through October, when thousands of elephants congregate along the Chobe River.
For lion: Also found in most game areas, safaris in the Masai Mara in Kenya and Serengeti in Tanzania are virtually guaranteed to encounter the big cats. Note that grass is shorter in east Africa June through October, allowing for better sightings.
For leopard: This solitary species is often found near human settlements and typically hauls its prey into trees. The Mala Mala reserve adjoining Kruger National Park in South Africa can offer excellent opportunities.
For cheetah: Namibia has the largest number, many of them in reintroduction programs, while Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains is a fine region for seeing this skilled predator at work.
For rhino: “Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania and Masai Mara are good places for seeing black rhino in the wild,” says Kent Redding of Denver’s Africa Adventure Consultants. Several private camps — Lewa Downs in Kenya, Mombo in Botswana, Phinda in South Africa — have reintroduction programs for the endangered black rhino.
For hyena: Africa’s most misunderstood species, hyenas bear resemblance to dogs but are more related to the mongoose family. Striped hyenas are found in Kenya and Tanzania, and spotted hyenas have more extensive coverage. The less-common and desert-adapted brown hyena is best seen in the Kalahari of Botswana.
For wild dog: Rare sightings of this species, Africa’s second- most-endangered carnivore, are perhaps most likely in northern Botswana, eastern Namibia and the Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania.
For the great wildebeest migration: The migration — including annual calving of 250,000 baby wildebeest — transpires in early March in the Serengeti, Tanzania. In July and October at Masai Mara, hungry 18-foot crocodiles lurking at wildebeest river crossings.
For mountain gorillas: Uganda or Rwanda, with the latter being somewhat more accessible.
For chimp trekking: In Tanzania, Mahale Mountains and Gombe national parks have chimpanzee research stations, while Kibale National Park in Uganda has the world’s highest density of primates.
For birdwatching: Most countries in southern and eastern Africa have excellent prospects, with migratory species common November through April.
For safari by canoe: Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia and, on the other side of the Zambezi River, Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe.
For safari by horseback: Macatoo Camp in Okavango Delta, Botswana is known for its horse safaris, while Nyika National Park in Malawi is also known for horseback safari trips on secluded hillsides inaccessible to vehicles.
For walking safaris: Exiting the game vehicle for a walking safari is a great charge, even if — as is usually the case — you don’t spot large game. Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is one of the most established places.
For fishing: Lake Malawi has a variety of species, while tiger fish put up a good fight on the Zambezi River, September through December.
For Victoria Falls: The voluminous flow for Victoria Falls starts to peak around March — you’ll see more mist than waterfall. In September the falls run driest, revealing the awesome canyon.
For white-water rafting: Immediately below Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River creates one of the world’s top rafting trips. It’s a thrill for most of the year, except for a few weeks around March, when the flow is too high for safe journeys.
For Mount Kilimanjaro: Tanzania’s 19,340-foot summit is best viewed from Amboseli National Park in Kenya. Best time for an ascent is during the dry season, June through October.
For beaches: Lamu in Kenya, Zanzibar in Tanzania, and the coast of Mozambique.
For wildflowers: Namaqualand in South Africa’s Northern Cape is world famous for its blooms, which peak between mid-August and mid-September.
David Swanson is a contributing editor to National Geographic Traveler and a columnist for Caribbean Travel & Life magazine.
