First things first: In a town buckling under the weight of its innumerable steakhouses, Sullivan’s, at 18th and Wazee streets in LoDo, is one of my favorites.
** 1/2 RATING | Very Good, Great
It’s sophisticated, clubby, evocative, dark, awash in martinis and wine and spirited conversation — all required elements of a great steakhouse. And on bleak midwinter evenings, there are few places in Denver that I’d rather pass a couple of hours nursing a frigid martini. Or two.
Perfect? Nope (more on that later). But I like it.
Tops on my list of things to like about Sullivan’s: the steaks, particularly the epic Bone-in Kansas City Strip.
Thick, meaty, tender, flavorful and just- marbled-enough, this elegant hunk of meat (cut from the short loin, making it less tender than a filet, but far more flavorful) was resplendent and seductive. By the first bite I was already making plans with this 20- ounce monster. Dinner tonight wouldn’t be enough; I’d be taking home leftovers for a steak-and-eggs breakfast in the morning, and be sure to tuck enough aside for an afternoon sandwich.
(One thing to know: In my experience, Sullivan’s steaks were prepared to the low end of the doneness scale; in other words, my “medium-rare” order, especially on the filet, came out looking and cutting more like rare. Nothing a revisit to the fire can’t remedy; tell your server if your slab is undercooked.)
Also scoring high: The slow-roasted prime rib, soft and decadent. Get this on a Sunday, when you can combine it with a salad and dessert for a $29 prix fixe meal.
The filet was serviceable, not best-in-show but certainly competitive with others in town. And the bone-in Cowboy Ribeye was suitably gargantuan, both in scale and flavor.
The decadent (and pricey) Maine lobster came split lengthwise and broiled, not boiled. While not a textbook Down-East preparation (my late grandfather would have been appalled), it’s much easier to fork-and-knife your way through a lobster thusly presented — no bib required. Order by the pound; a 2-pounder is plenty for most mortal appetites, but if you choose a 3-pounder you can take home a claw and make yourself a lobster roll tomorrow.
Both the wedge salad (included with every entree) and the Caesar salad (available as a substitute, at a price) were fresh and well-dressed. The tomato and mozzarella salad, however, a steakhouse composition only ever perfected at the famous Peter Luger’s in Brooklyn, was daunting: too-thick slices of tomato and bulbous globs of cheese. Avoid it.
On the side, I dug the creamed spinach, sparsely spiced and not heavy, and the shamelessly creamy white cheddar potatoes au gratin.
Skip these: the onion rings (soggy and undercooked as if the oil weren’t hot enough), the lobster bisque (chewy with soup-skin that had been stirred beneath the surface) and the sweet potato casserole (much, much too sweet).
But these are easily avoided culinary quibbles, forgivable given the iciness of the martinis and the robustness of the steaks.
My real issue with Sullivan’s, over the past few visits, is the service.
It’s not totally inept, and it’s always smiley. But it cuts corner after corner. Allow me to illustrate.
On a recent visit, I asked for water with no ice for a dining companion who likes iceless water. A simple, seemingly straightforward request.
“Just tell the girl serving the water,” chirped our server. “OK? Thanks.”
But wait, I was thinking. Aren’t you supposed to do that?
Now, I’m all for friendly, personable service. Even familiar, so long as it doesn’t involve patting my shoulder (a huge pet peeve, one that thankfully didn’t occur at Sullivan’s). But (cheerfully) asking me to make your job easier, no matter how insignificant the task, crosses the line. And when it happens at the top of the evening, it sours the whole dinner.
Unfortunately, service snafus aren’t uncommon here. Staffers are not rude and never unkind, but they’re inconsistent and, to my mind, too informal for a grown-up steakhouse like Sullivan’s.
To wit: Once, I arrived on time for a 9 p.m. reservation to this blunt welcome, delivered with a smile but unencumbered by anything resembling an apology: “You’ll have to wait, we’re much busier than we expected to be.”
On another night, I was directed to the men’s room with a vague “It’s back there” hand- wave.
Later, there stood the salad- bearing server, glancing first at our still-unfinished appetizer plates, then at us, then back at the plates, sighing as if to say: “You have not finished your appetizers quickly enough to suit me. How dare you?”
Each foible might be forgiveable taken independently, but string them together and your evening’s toast.
Still, I have hope. The staffers at Sullivan’s are smart and capable. Here’s hoping the front-of-the-house management puts the press on for higher standards.
Whereas many area meat palaces saddle diners with phonebook-sized wine lists devoid of affordable juice, the wine list at Sullivan’s, while unmistakeably steakhousey (big reds, mostly American) has its share of accessibly priced bottles. Buck the cabernet same-old and pick a Robert Stemmler pinot noir.
If you’re a smoker, you’d best hit Sullivan’s before the first of the year, because come January, Sullivan’s will finally have a restaurant-wide ban on cigarettes and cigars. (Stogie huffers will be happy to know, however, that cigars will remain on the menu — you’ll just have to take them outside.)
If you’re not a smoker, wait a couple of weeks to let the air clear before making a reservation, or plan to shower after dinner to get the reek out of your hair.
Sullivan’s isn’t perfect, and it knows it. But it’s solid, and it’s got a certain unquantifiable je-ne-sais-quois X-factor that gives it a sense of character missing from some of our more staid steakhouses. For that, it deserves a spot in the front row of the ever-growing pantheon of Denver steakhouses.
Tucker Shaw: 303-954-1958 or dining@denverpost.com.
Sullivan’s Steakhouse
Steak 1745-61 Wazee St., 303-295-2664
** 1/2 RATING | Very Good/Great
Atmosphere: Clubby, busy steakhouse with large bar area and spacious dining room.
Service: Friendly and knowledgeable, but not always engaged.
Wine: Hefty but not overwhelming list predictably (and appropriately) red and tannic. Plenty of midpriced bottles.
Plates: Appetizers $11-14. Steaks $29 and up. Sides $6-$8.
Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Dinner: 5:30-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Sunday.
Details: Reservations recommended. Valet parking. All major credit cards. Smoking permitted until January. Plan accordingly.
Three visits.
Our star system:
****: Excellent
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
