A couple of years ago, right around the time I was packing up my stuff and moving to Denver from New York, one of my favorite go-to regular restaurants, the 2nd Avenue Deli, shut its doors.
** RATING | Very Good
It seemed impossible, because this stalwart institution had been around, serving excellent Eastern European/Jewish cuisine, for what seemed like, well, forever. I’d sit over bowls of kasha varnishkes and plates of pastrami, turning over in my mind memories of Borscht Belt deities like Fraydele Oysher and Mickey Katz, memories I never really had in the first place but wished I did.
I got over the closing of the 2nd Avenue Deli pretty easily; I figured the 2,000 miles between here and there would soften the pain.
And besides, there was Zaidy’s Deli over in Cherry Creek which, while not as iconic or traditional as the 2nd Avenue Deli, has proven itself a fine stand-in.
There isn’t a day in the week when the place isn’t packed with folks rifling through the paper and catching up on gossip across breakfasts of corned beef hash and lunches of matzoh ball soup and cheese blintzes.
Zaidy’s is careful not to call itself Kosher — instead, the menu is touted on the website as “Kosher-style.” Whatever it is, I’m just glad they offer the fish club sandwich, a couple of pieces of sourdough stacked with cod, bacon, cheddar cheese and basil-infused mayonnaise. It may not be Kosher, but neither am I.
My most regular order is the so-called “Fried Egg Sandwich,” a Kaiser roll (fresher on some days than on others) which houses a fried egg, a few slices of red onion, a slap of Swiss cheese, crispy bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion and a generous slather of mayo. It’s a mess to eat, but never disappoints. The fried potatoes on the side are always underseasoned, but there’s salt on the table; knock yourself out.
Zaidy’s matzoh ball soup is better than you might think, given that this is a town not generally celebrated for such things. The broth, silky and amber-clear, tacks hints of onion and herb around its centerpiece chicken flavoring, and the giant moon of a matzoh ball is soft and airy. Too big to finish to be sure, but comforting and lovingly produced.
About the bagels: I’m a purist, and I’m certain that most people will disagree with me, but as far as I’m concerned, if you need to toast a bagel, it’s not much of a bagel to begin with. Truly excellent fresh bagels are never improved by a visit to the toaster. Zaidy’s appears to understand the limitations of its own bagels (hey, this isn’t Lenny’s or Ess-a-bagel in Manhattan) which come toasted unless you request otherwise. Get one with lox if you like lox, or smoked sable (also called black cod) if you’re fancy.
You know you’re in Denver when you see chili and eggs and guacamole on the Kosher-style menu. Trust that voice inside that tells you there are better examples of both of these all over town.
If it’s lunchtime, have a Reuben sandwich, a classic pastrami-rye-Swiss- saurkraut construction. It’s big enough to eat half, be happy, and take the rest home for later.
Servers at Zaidy’s are professional and swift and always busy. You can tell by the fact that they leave a whole pot of coffee on your table; they just don’t have time to keep refilling cups. Know what you want when they come around to collect your order, or you’ll risk missing the precious window.
Zaidy’s has a second location downtown, which I can’t say I like as much. With a little less schmutz around the edges, it just doesn’t have the character or energy of the Cherry Creek flagship.
You’ll likely have to wait for a table at Zaidy’s in Cherry Creek, but they turn over quickly, so don’t be discouraged. Instead, take the opportunity to browse the deli case, packed with meats, condiments and sweets. Plan to grab a few rugelach on the way out the door; they’re perfect car munchies.
A few weeks ago, I was sitting at Zaidy’s when a cellphone text delivered the excellent news that the Second Avenue Deli was reopening, only this time on, appropriately, toity-toid and toid (a.k.a. 33rd and 3rd). Not that they’ll be changing their name to the 33rd Street Deli or anything.
I polished off my fried egg sandwich with a smile.
Tucker Shaw: 303-954-1958 or dining@denverpost.com.
Zaidy’s Deli
Deli Two locations. In Cherry Creek: 121 Adams St. (at East First Avenue), 303-333-5336. Downtown: 1512 Larimer St. (Writer’s Square, corner of 15th and Larimer streets), 303-893-3600
** RATING | Very Good
Atmosphere: Busy, bustling deli with large dining room and sprawling deli case.
Service: Swift and focused. Display efficiency to receive efficiency.
Wine: Uh, coffee?
Plates: Most items under $10.
Hours: Cherry Creek location: Monday: 6:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Friday: 6:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday: 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday: 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Downtown location: 6:30 a.m.-3 p.m. seven days.
Details: Parking lot. All major credit cards. Great for solo dining or for kids. Expect to wait for a table during busy hours, but you won’t wait long.
Many, many visits.
Our star system:
****: Excellent
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
