OK, I’ll admit to having mixed feelings about climbing on sandstone. Not the metamorphosed, hard sandstone of Eldorado Canyon but the soft, gritty kind that is found in some areas of southern Utah, for example.
For that reason I’ve avoided climbing in places like the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.
Something about the texture makes me a little nervous — it can sometimes feel as though you’re stepping on ball bearings and to my way of thinking gives you little warning before gravity overcomes friction.
Recently though, friends had returned from an area near the Garden of the Gods called Red Rock Canyon Open Space with tales of excellent sport routes on generally good rock. Somewhat dubious but hoping to be pleasantly surprised, we headed down there to check it out and ended up having a fun day in a beautiful setting.
This relatively new area boasts around 90 well-bolted routes. Regulations for technical rock climbing here are the same as for the neighboring Garden of the Gods. Register and sign a waiver at the Garden of the Gods Visitor Center, and pick up a guidebook (“Red Rock Canyon Open Space: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Colorado Springs,” by Stewart M. Green). If the Visitor Center is out of stock, the guidebook should be available at local outdoor-goods stores.
Whether you’re a climber or not, Red Rock Canyon Open Space is worth a visit.
Approach
For our first visit to the area we selected climbs on the Whale’s Tail and on the Whale. To reach the Whale’s Tail, from the second parking area, walk either on the trail or along the road, south into the canyon. After only 0.2 miles you’ll reach a picturesque lake on the right. The Whale’s Tail and the Whale are visible just beyond the lake. The Whale’s Tail is the first formation. Take the right hand (west) hiking trail past the lake and continue until there is a break in the rock face to your right. A trail of sorts climbs up through the break to the base of the climbs. To reach the Whale, continue on the main west-side trail until it makes a hard left jog before turning sharply left again. At this left turn, a climbers’ trail heads over toward the rock face, up some steps made from concrete blocks.
Climb description
The Whale’s Tail offers three well-bolted routes from 5.7 to 5.10a. The Whale is much more extensive and has generally better rock quality than that found on the Whale’s Tail. Twenty-four bolted routes provide mainly moderate climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.5 to 5.10b. All climbs are well-bolted and have two-bolt anchors.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Snow Climbs: A Guide for All Seasons.”
The Details
Getting to the trailhead: From Interstate 25 in Colorado Springs, take the U.S. 24 exit (Exit 141) west for 3.2 miles and turn left onto Ridge Road at the sign for Red Rock Canyon Open Space. Follow the road left past the first large parking area to the end of the road at a second parking area.
Difficulty: Technical sport climbs covering a wide range of difficulty.
Gear: A set of Quickdraws and anchor material. The climbs described here require only a single 60-meter rope.
USGS Quad: Manitou Springs
Note: Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the safety of the route. Ice climbing is particularly hazardous. We write about it; you take all the risks.
