Lately, I’ve been contemplating condiments.
The American Heritage Dictionary defines “condiment” thusly: A substance, such as a relish, vinegar or spice, used to flavor or complement food.
But to me, condiments are much more than that. Hardly bit players, they can absolutely characterize the dish they’re associated with.
Take, for example, mayonnaise. What would a BLT be without it? Or, for another example, hot sauce. Can you imagine a Bloody Mary sans Tabasco? Horrors.
Condiments are also culture points. If you put malt vinegar on your fries, you’re doing as the English do. If you pick at kimchee between bites of barbecue, you’re engaging in a Korean ritual. If you drizzle tzatziki over your lamb, you’re going Greek; if you spritz it with lemon instead, you’re looking to the Middle East; and the kind of charoset you serve at your seder tags your traditions as Ashkenazi or Sephardic.
I like condiments on hot dishes and cold dishes, sweet and savory and in-between. To me, they are essential accessories; without them, the dish might be well-prepared and tasty, but it just won’t shine.
Here are two of my own home recipes for two very different condiments.
Piri-piri sauce is a zingy, searing-hot pepper sauce that I first discovered several years ago on a road trip through South Africa, where it took hold after Portuguese immigrants introduced it to neighboring Mozambique.
Sabayon is a simple egg- based dessert sauce; I make mine with my current liqueur crush, St.-Germain, a sweet, elderflower-scented aperitif.
Serve the first with grilled chicken, shrimp or fish; serve the second with summer berries, a lemon pound cake or cooked peaches.
Piri-Piri Sauce
Makes about 2 cups. Choose your peppers carefully according to your own internal heat index; this sauce can get super hot. Remove the seeds and the pith if you prefer a milder sauce. Adjust liquid ingredients depending on how much liquid your chiles carry.
Ingredients
10-12 red, orange or yellow chiles, such as cayenne, Fresno, manzana or Thai
Juice of 2 limes
1 tablespoon honey
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1-2 tablespoon cider vinegar
Pinch kosher salt
1 clove garlic, coarsely chopped
Directions
Place all ingredients in blender and combine on medium until thoroughly blended but still chunky.
St-Germain Sabayon
Makes enough for 2-4 servings. Serve with fruit, cake or just by itself. Can also be made with brandy or other liqueurs.
Ingredients
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons St.-Germain (elderflower) liqueur
2 tablespoons sugar
Directions
In a medium glass bowl set over, but not touching, boiling water, vigorously whisk together egg yolks, St-Germain and sugar until doubled in size. Serve immediately with fruit or cake.
