I’ve always wondered about people who won’t cook at home because they’re afraid that firing up the stove will “stink up the house.”
Sure, no one wants to breathe garlicky air all the time, but once a week it doesn’t hurt to have food fragrances wafting through the house: a slow-bubbling tomato sauce, a gently simmering buffalo chili, or a chocolate cake.
One of my favorite kitchen smells is that of a roasting chicken, a timeless, seasonless aroma plump with promise and prescience. You can envision it in the oven, skin slowly browning and crisping while the flesh inside braises in its own intoxicating juices.
Usually, the smell of roasting chicken suggests a whole bird, but thanks to its inherent versatility and implied soulfulness, chicken can be braised to equal, if not better, effect. And when you stick to legs and thighs rather than a whole bird, your result is even juicier, meatier, more finger-licking.
Visit your neighborhood butcher for a good-quality, local chicken.
Sure, it’ll stink up the house, but that’s what memories are made of. And besides, you can always open the windows.
Slow-braised Chicken With Artichokes
Adapted from “Think Like a Chef,” by Tom Colicchio. Serves 4.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons peanut oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 chicken legs
4 chicken thighs
1 large yellow onion, peeled and cut into 8 pieces
3 carrots, peeled, each cut into about 4 pieces
3 celery stalks, peeled, each cut into about 4 pieces
4 garlic cloves, peeled
4 sprigs of fresh thyme plus additional for garnish
4 sprigs of fresh tarragon plus additional for garnish
1 1/4 cups chicken stock
1 12-ounce jar high-quality artichoke hearts, drained
2 tablespoons butter
Directions
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Salt and pepper the chicken on both sides, then, working in batches, brown the chicken, about 7 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
Pour off all but enough fat to coat the skillet (about 2 tablespoons). Add the onion, carrots, celery and a little salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium heat until the vegetables soften and begin to brown, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and half of the herbs and cook for 3 to 5 minutes more. Arrange the chicken, skin side up, over the vegetables.
Add enough stock to come up to but not over the chicken and bring it to a simmer on top of the stove. Transfer the skillet to the oven and gently simmer, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours, adding more stock if the pan begins to look dry.
Add the artichokes, the remaining herbs and the butter. Cook for another 15 minutes, basting the chicken frequently. When the chicken is done it will be very tender and well browned, and the braising liquid will have thickened slightly. Serve the chicken with the braising liquid and vegetables, and garnish with additional fresh herbs.
