My friend Patty recently told me that she hated beets when she was a kid. I did, too. We agreed that it was probably because back then (in the 1970s) there was, as far as we Denver kids knew, no such thing as a fresh beet. Beets came in cans, and back then canned vegetables were, by definition, icky.
Same went for Brussels sprouts, carrots, peas. Yams and turnips and carrots. Asparagus and cauliflower and squash. Yuck.
It wasn’t really our fault — it’s just that back then, any produce that could be jarred, canned or dehydrated was jarred, canned or dehydrated, and back then, they were really just awful.
Cut to today, when I can’t get enough fresh roasted beets, lightly salted and drizzled with a ruddy olive oil.
One reason? Our access to fresh produce is far better. Another reason? We seem to, collectively, have more interesting ideas of what to do with it.
Here’s a recipe that I rediscovered recently from a cookbook I’ve had knocking around for a while, “The Elements of Taste” by Peter Kaminsky and Gray Kunz. (Kunz’ Cafe Gray in New York City has, for the record, the cleanest restaurant kitchen I’ve ever seen.)
No beets in this recipe, but it brilliantly showcases Brussels sprouts and turnips in a way that makes beautiful sense this time of year, especially when it’s served under a couple of beer-braised brats and with a jar of German mustard nearby.
Oh, plenty of cold beer all around.
Apple, Brussels sprout and turnip hash
From “The Elements of Taste,” by Peter Kaminsky and Gray Kunz. Serves 4.
Ingredients
1/2 pound Brussels sprouts, quartered
Kosher salt
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 large white turnip, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
8-10 slices crumbled crispy bacon
Freshly ground white pepper
Pinch sugar
Directions
Blanch the Brussels sprouts in boiling salted water, about 2 minutes, then drain and shock in cold water.
Melt 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Remove the Brussels sprouts from the pan and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter and the apples and cook until they are golden, 4-5 minutes. Set the apples aside.
Bring 1/4 cup of vinegar to a boil. Add the turnips, season with salt, then simmer until the turnips are tender and the vinegar reduced by half. Add the Brussels sprouts to the turnips and continue to reduce for 2-3 minutes. Just before serving, add the apples, heat through, then add the remaining butter and crisped bacon. Adjust the seasoning with vinegar, sugar and salt, and serve.
