Bonnie Brae Tavern
When Bonnie Brae first opened its doors in the 1930s, Denver was at the edge of the Dustbowl, the Prohibition movement was waning and the economy was in the tank. To liven the mood in his hometown, local gas-station owner Carl Dire figured he’d throw up a watering hole in his working-class Washington Park neighborhood and feed folks a drink.
A decade later, they added pizza to the roster of refreshments.
Bonnie Brae Tavern still anchors its neighborhood. Servers pull pitchers of cold beer and sling hot pies to grateful groups of Bronco-watchers, multi-generational family gatherings, and klatches of Denverites trying to dodge their better halves for the afternoon.
Now approaching its 75th year in business, the Brae has resisted the development and tonification of the neighborhood around it. Just like in the dirt-road days, you don’t come here expecting white-tablecloth service and fine wine. Instead, expect friendly service, cold beer, hot pizza with a crunchy crust, and a pleasant, relaxing vibe.
Bonnie Brae Tavern, 740 S. University Blvd., 303-777-2262,
Lechuga’s Italian Restaurant
There are two sorts of customer at Lechuga’s, which has also been here forever.
One sort sits in the bright dining room, with its fluorescent lighting, checkered tablecloths and boisterous atmosphere. (This sort of customer often travels in packs, often with children.)
The other sort sits in the dim, clubby bar area in back, tucking into a cozy booth and sipping beer to a Louis Prima/ Connie Francis soundtrack. (Give or take a little Keane or Death Cab.)
You almost feel like you’re in Brooklyn, or Philly, or Chicago — until your pizza arrives.
The must-order pie is the green chile pizza, a slab of buttery pizza crust topped with a little bit of cheese, a little bit of sauce, and a whole lot of generously sliced strips of roasted green chiles.
No, this could only be Denver.
Lechuga’s Italian Restaurant, 3609 Tejon St., 303-455-9040.
Lala’s Wine Bar & Pizzeria
OK, so it calls itself a wine bar, and Lala’s has plenty of grape juice to offer (some of it even affordable), but this spanking new offshoot of the long-time neighborhood spot Govnr’s Park (just around the corner), has one of the only taps in town pulling Peroni lager.
Come on a weeknight and sit at the bar, where you’ll order whatever pizza is on special that night (if you’re lucky, it will come with prosciutto and an egg) and instruct your server to keep the Peronis coming while you devour the crispy-crusted pie.
Riding a windy high-wire between relaxed neighborhood hangout and fabulous Cap Hill scene- ster magnet, it’s too soon to see which side Lala’s will fall on, and just who it will continue to attract. No matter: The pizzas are good and the beer is cold and there’s a hungry audience within walking distance. And if Bonnie Brae Tavern and Lechuga’s are any indication, that’s a formula that’ll keep folks coming back.
Again and again.
Lala’s Wine Bar and Pizzeria. 410 E. Seventh Ave., 303-861-9463,
