Vail’s tagline says it all: Like nothing on Earth.
The resort town’s snowy landscape is undeniable — what with its three terrain parks, seven bowls and 5,289 acres of dry, Colorado powder. There’s a reason people travel halfway around the world to ski and ride here.
And then there’s Vail Village and Lionshead, the hubs that feed, house and satiate the hordes of travelers. Good luck getting a place to stand — let alone sit — at any of the slopeside bars when après comes around. And good luck getting a cheap drink too. At the sardine-packed Red Lion Inn bar a few weeks ago at 4 p.m., the question came: Are there any drink specials?
“Sir, you’re in Vail, Colorado, in the middle of winter,” the bartender quipped. “Of course there aren’t any drink specials.”
And there you go.
Here is our guide to Vail, the delightful ritz that sits between Summit County and Aspen.
BARS
Bart & Yeti’s
In Vail, après is more than your average happy hour. It’s a tradition that nearly everybody takes part in. It’s a way of life that fills the bars from 3 p.m. to well past 6 or 7 p.m. And it’s not unusual to see the inebriated masses stumbling out of this Lionshead mainstay — still in their ski boots — three hours after the lifts closed. 551 E. Lionshead Circle, Lionshead;
Los Amigos
Speaking of Vail traditions, margaritas and people watching at Los Amigos (next to the Vista Bahn lift) are among the most famous. This Mexican bar’s patio has a bird’s-eye view of the legendary run Pepi’s Face, and the margaritas fuel the entertainment that is watching lackluster skiers tackle the difficult run. 400 Bridge St., Vail Village
Vendetta’s
The pizza is solid, but it’s not the reason to come here. This ski-patrol haunt is one of the wildest bars in the village. Après here is nearly intolerable if you arrive after 3:30 p.m. It’s loved by many, and there’s almost always something going on. 291 Bridge St., Vail Village
SHOPPING
The Moose’s Caboose
There are gift shops and there are gift shops, and this delightful space has a knowing buyer with great taste. The kind staff will help you with all the T-shirts and Vail-centric gifts you’ll need, but the coolest items in the shop are the personalized wooden signs fashioned after the ski-run signs of resorts throughout Summit and Eagle counties. 291 Bridge St., Vail Village
Billabong
You might think of board shorts when you think Billabong, but the Australian outfitter also designs some of the sharpest winter wear on the market. Seriously: You’re in the lift line and suddenly your eyes are locked on a nearby coat on a young skiier. All too often, it’s a Billabong, and they have a store conveniently located a couple steps from the Vista Bahn lift in case you forget your gloves or want to update your 20-year-old snowbib. 244 Wall St. No. 3, Vail Village;
Burton at Arrabelle
In the same way that Billabong makes some of the tightest outerwear, Burton is a clear leader in snowboard design. And a trip to the powerhouse’s Lionshead store has full-grown riders looking like kids in a candy shop: Gaping mouths, blank stares, drool forming. 675 Lionshead Place, Lionshead;
FOOD
George’s
You almost have to run the gantlet to get from the slopes to the George — walking past bloated après bars, full restaurants and overpriced everything. Mind you, it’s not a long walk. But once you get there, you’re rewarded with a chill experience — underground location, lots of couches, cheaper drinks, board games and lots of other in-the-know kids to talk with. 292 E. Meadow Drive, Vail Village
Blue Moose Pizza
Sometimes that smell of pizza is so intoxicating that it thwarts all other plans. Not long ago, we were planning to leave Vail, beating traffic and grabbing a bite in Silverthorne or Idaho Springs — but then we walked by Blue Moose (which also serves subs and other Italian entrees), and we ended up sitting in Vail for another few hours. 675 W. Lionshead Circle, Lionshead;
Moe’s Original Barbecue
The space isn’t much. And the food’s only OK. But the beer comes in cold cans, and the people-watching scene is very real. This is one of the younger scenes in Vail, with lots of staff partying after their mountain shifts and a load of snowboards littering the unused outdoor patio. Stand in line to order your food, and then pay attention to the back counter, where it will be served up with little warning. 675 W. Lionshead Circle, Lionshead
LIVE MUSIC
Red Lion Inn
Most après bars seem like rookies compared with the Red Lion, which has been doing it right since 1963. The Red Lion has it all: from a raging patio to a simple restaurant, from plenty of beers on tap to a co-owner (Phil Long) who sings Bon Jovi and Foo Fighters songs twice a day, at après (3:30 p.m.) and at night (8:30 p.m.). Don’t miss the world-famous nachos and the insanely thorough website, where you can reserve a table for Long’s show with a $500 minimum credit card deposit. (“Like nothing on Earth,” indeed!) 304 Bridge St., Vail Village;
Pepi’s
Sink into the distinctive European design at this Vail fixture, which has been around since 1964. And while you can order a wide variety of food — from rack of venison tosauerbraten — many come here for the beers and songs that dominate the main bar as the lifts wind down. 231 E. Gore Creek Drive, Vail Village;
The Club
If you miss your favorite college bar, here’s the place to relive those memories. The Club’s slogan: “If you don’t come to party, don’t (expletive) come.” They have live music seven nights a week, most often with the “good times man” Steve Meyer. And unlike the Red Lion, they proudly serve various drink specials each night. 304 Bridge St., Vail Village;
Ricardo Baca: 303-954-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com
