Although polenta is as molto Italiano as a Juventus football jersey, Italians don’t eat a lot of fresh corn. Unlike Americans, who use it in everything from corn bread to chowder to succotash, Italians are deeply suspicious of the vegetable. Jeff Webb, who is my second in command at Olivea, told me that when he worked in Italy, his fellow cooks warned him against eating fresh corn: It was fit only for animals, and repeated human consumption would lead to nightmares and eventual insanity.
This is a shame, not just because an ear of fresh corn is so delicious but because there are fewer combinations more satisfying (if less traditional) than polenta mixed with kernels of fresh corn. There’s a beautiful synergy in the corn-on-corn combination: The fresh corn brings out the flavor of the dried corn, and vice-versa.
The great thing about this recipe is that it can be served right out of the pot, as soft polenta, or it can be chilled, cut, floured and baked, pan-fried or deep- fried. It’s great with chicken, shrimp or pork: At Olivea we serve it with grilled pork loin and an agro dolce sauce made with sour cherries.
Make this recipe with fresh local Olathe corn, which is now in season.
John Broening cooks at Duo and Olivea restaurants in Denver.
Sweet Corn Polenta
This recipe can be used for either soft or hard polenta. Makes about 6 portions.
Ingredients
2 quarts water
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups coarse ground polenta
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup diced yellow onions
3 cups fresh corn kernels
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1 cup grated parmesan
Freshly ground pepper
Directions
In a heavy bottomed pot, bring the water and salt to a boil. In a steady stream, whisk in the polenta, then turn the heat down to low. Whisk regularly until the polenta begins to thicken, then stir every five minutes or so.
Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a saute pan and cook the onions until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the corn and a pinch of salt, and cook another 5 minutes. Set aside.
If making hard polenta, butter an 8 1/2-by-11-inch baking pan.
After an hour, when the polenta has begun to pull away from the sides, add the corn mixture, the remaining butter, the scallions, cheese and additional salt and pepper.
If making soft polenta, serve immediately (if the polenta has gotten too thick, whisk in 1 cup of very hot water). If making hard polenta, spread the mixture in the buttered baking pan and chill completely until ready to use.
Hard polenta can be either baked, pan-fried or deep-fried. If it is deep-fried or pan-fried, it should be floured first.
