It’s impossible to beat a good old-fashioned cheeseburger, a grilled or griddled ground-beef patty on a soft sesame bun topped with yellow cheddar, onions, lettuce, tomato, ketchup and a schmear of mayo.
OK, and a couple of strips of bacon.
But there’s more to the burger universe. Chicken. Veggie. Lamb. Au poivre. The possibilities are endless.
This weekend, celebrate Labor Day by breaking out of the burger box and taking on a new patty.
Recipes
Chicken Burgers
Adapted from “Grilling,” by The Culinary Institute of America. Makes 8 burgers.
Ingredients
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large shallot, minced
1 1/2 cups mushrooms, minced
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 pounds ground chicken meat
3 cups bread crumbs
4 tablespoons chopped herbs (chives, oregano, basil, rosemary or a mixture)
Directions
Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add the shallots and saute until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until browned and all the moisture has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add the parsley, 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Allow to cool to room temperature.
Gently mix together the mushroom mixture, the chicken, bread crumbs, herbs and remaining salt and pepper until completely blended. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Preheat a gas grill to medium. Clean the cooking grate. Grill the burgers until cooked through, about 6 minutes per side. Serve on Kaiser rolls topped with cheese, bacon, mayonnaise, ketchup and/or red pepper flakes if desired.
Burger au Poivre
Adapted from “Burger Bar: Build Your Own Ultimate Burgers,” by Hubert Keller with Penelope Wisner (Wiley). If all you have is black peppercorns, just use those. Makes 4 burgers.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon dried whole green peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole white peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole pink peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
2 pounds coarsely ground sirloin, chilled
About 1/2cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt
1 tablespoon cognac or brandy
1/4 cup dry red wine
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 large baguette, cut into 4 buns
2 large handfuls salad mix
2 small ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
Directions
In a small bowl, mix together the peppercorns with the coriander. Enclose the mix in a clean kitchen towel and, with the edge of a heavy pan or the flat side of a meat tenderizer, crush the peppercorns. You want fairly large, crunch pieces, not a powder. Shake the mixture into a small bowl.
Divide the meat into 4 evenly sized, elongated patties about 1-inch thick. Generously brush the patties on both sides with the mustard, reserving 1 teaspoon. Then press about 1 1/2 teaspoons cracked pepper onto the top and bottom of each patty.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Generously season the meat on both sides with salt.
Cook the burgers in the skillet, turning once or twice, for 7 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Do not press down on the patties. With a large spoon, baste the burgers several times with the fat in the pan. Remove the burgers to a warm platter and keep warm while making the pan sauce.
Pour off the fat remaining in the skillet and return it to medium-high heat. Add the cognac and the red wine and stir and scrape all over the bottom and sides of the pan to loosen all the browned bits. Cook until the pan is nearly dry, about 2 minutes, and then add the stock. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and simmer to meld the flavors, another 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining teaspoon mustard and immediately remove the pan from the heat. You should have about 2 tablespoons of sauce per person.
While the sauce reduces, toast the buns in a toaster oven or under the broiler, about 5 inches from the heat, until lightly toasted.
To build the burgers, moisten the bun bottoms with a little of the sauce. Top with the salad mix, tomatoes, and then the burgers. Pour the remaining sauce over the burgers and cover with the bun tops. Serve.
Lamb Burgers
From “River Cottage Meat Book,” by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, (Ten Speed Press). Makes 6-8 burgers.
Ingredients
1/2 teaspoon dried chile flakes
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon red peppercorns (if available)
2 pounds ground lamb
1 tablespoon olive or sunflower oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt
Directions
Place chile flakes in a mortar and pestle with the other dry spices and pound to a coarse powder.
Put the lamb in a bowl and mix with the oil and garlic and dried spice mixture. Leave to marinate 2 hours.
Form lamb into patties ¾ inch thick and grill for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, till nicely browned and cooked through.
Roasted Squash-Quinoa Burgers
Adapted from “Burger Bar: Build Your Own Ultimate Burgers,” by Hubert Keller with Penelope Wisner (Wiley). Makes 4 burgers. If cooking outdoors, set a cast-iron skillet on the grill for these delicate burgers, rather than cooking them directly on the grill-grate.
Ingredients
1 small butternut squash, halved, seeded and roasted
4 cups cooked quinoa
1/4 cup ground hazelnuts or almonds
1/2 cups potato flakes or dried bread crumbs
1 large egg, beaten
4 slices gruyère cheese
Directions
Scoop cooled squash flesh into a bowl and mash lightly. Measure 2 cups of the squash into a large bowl and reserve the remaining squash for another use. Add the quinoa to the squash with the hazelnuts, potato flakes, beaten egg and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. To shape the burgers, work with damp hands. Divide and shape the patty mixture into 4 evenly sized balls. Place them on the baking sheet with plenty of space between them. Then pat them lightly into rounds. Refrigerate the patties for at least 30 minutes before cooking.
When ready to cook, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook the burgers until nicely crusted and brown, about 3 minutes per side, turning carefully. Add more oil, if needed, to keep the burgers from sticking.
