History buffs love its Civil War battlefields, presidential roots and Colonial charm, while shoppers appreciate the high-end boutiques and dusty antiques malls on a single street. Diners, meanwhile, welcome the tough choices between savvy restaurants and iconic eateries.
Simply put, Fredericksburg, Va., is more than 300 years of social evolution neatly folded into 11 square miles.
The potential for an identity crisis aside — folks in business clothes stroll the sidewalks alongside those in bonnets and bustled skirts — this city occupies a prime piece of real estate, perfectly positioned between the capital of Virginia and the capital of the nation. Wrapped around the area like a copper-colored bow is the Rappa- hannock, the longest free-flowing river in the Chesapeake Bay watershed.
Our family called this hidden gem home until a year ago, when my husband’s job brought us to Colorado. So, when my brother’s fall wedding took us back to the ‘Burg, we decided to treat the trip like a vacation, taking advantage of the things we’d always taken for granted.
After the cross-country flight and hour-long drive to Fredericksburg from Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport, just outside Washington, D.C., we were famished. But, unlike the hordes of tourists who visit Fredericksburg each year, we weren’t forced to rely on a stranger’s advice or the safety of a favorite chain.
With its chrome bar stools and handwritten specials, the 2400 Diner has been dishing up classic lunch-counter fare since it opened on Princess Anne Street in 1955. It’s a nostalgic nook of a restaurant, but its reputation as a Fredericksburg staple is enormous. We ordered sandwiches (I finally tried my husband’s favorite, corned beef and Swiss on rye with onions and mustard — what was I waiting for?), and we relished the flavor of the food and the place.
The diner is just one Fredericksburg eatery that serves a hearty helping of old-fashioned flair. Goolrick’s Pharmacy claims the country’s oldest operating soda fountain, in use since the 1860s; Carl’s, a nationally recognized roadside stand, has been churning out ice cream with vintage Electro Freeze machines since 1947; and Allman’s Bar-B-Q has been smothering Smithfield pork in homemade sauce since 1954.
A distinguished history
But Fredericksburg’s story starts long before neon signs began luring hungry passersby. Established as a city in 1728, Fredericksburg was named for Frederick, Prince of Wales, the eldest son of Great Britain’s King George II. Perhaps best known as the boyhood home of George Washington and the site of some of the Civil War’s bloodiest battles, the city — and its surrounding areas — also played a key role in the Revolutionary War, thanks to its riverside location.
Today, tourists in horse- drawn carriages wind through a virtual time capsule containing such sites as Kenmore, the plantation where George Washington’s sister, Betty Washington Lewis, lived with her husband, Fielding Lewis; the Rising Sun Tavern, built by Washington’s brother Charles; and the 18th-century apothecary shop owned by Washington’s friend Hugh Mercer.
George Washington grew up on a plantation just across the Rappahannock in Stafford County, living at Ferry Farm from the age of 6 until his early 20s. The site is the setting for the apocryphal tales of Washington tossing a silver dollar across the river and of his chopping down his father’s cherry tree and then confessing by saying, “I cannot tell a lie.”
In just a few miles, though, you can travel from the 18th century to the 21st. Just west of the historic downtown area is Central Park, a 300- plus-acre shopaholic’s dream come true. It’s a teeming tangle of more than 200 businesses, including more than 50 eateries — a veritable shopper’s dream.
Tasked with picking up some wedding essentials, we made our way through the maze of merchants and marveled at the stores that had opened since our last visit.
After shoppers are all tapped out, there’s a priceless Fredericksburg treat to be had: the beauty of the Rappa- hannock River. Stretching from the Blue Ridge Mountains to Chesapeake Bay, it flows for nearly 200 miles. In Fredericksburg, its taupe-tinted waters grow shallow and are riddled with rapids and waterfalls.
We managed a visit to the river, making our way across an old bridge and a rocky bank to sit and soak up the scenery. The majestic landmark is home to all manner of wildlife, including bald eagles, and from our perch along its edge, we watched as a great blue heron stalked its seafood dinner while a family of ducks drifted by. It was by far the most peaceful part of the trip, and it gave us time to reflect on the years we spent in Fredericksburg.
Like the river, with its ebbs and flows, the city is constantly carving new channels for itself. But with some of the most sought-after businesses around, this is one East Coast city that hasn’t let its passion for the past put a damper on the future.
Fredericksburg Insider’s Guide
GET THERE: Fredericksburg, Va., is about a 2,000-mile trip from Denver. You can drive, of course, but you’ll most likely be on the road for at least three days each way. If you have the time — and the patience — it’s a great way to get a glimpse of a good portion of the country.
By plane, total airtime is four to five hours. Dulles International (IAD) and Ronald Reagan Washington National (DCA) airports, both just outside of Washington, D.C., and north of Fredericksburg; and Richmond International Airport (RIC) to the south all are about an hour’s drive from the ‘Burg.
Most major airlines offer flights to these airports from Denver, and round-trip tickets typically cost $200 to $400, but they can get pricier, especially if you book a nonstop flight.
STAY: Newly built, the Courtyard Marriott (6200 Caroline St., 540-373-8300, ) is the only hotel in the heart of Fredericksburg’s historic downtown district, putting guests within walking distance of many attractions.
The Fredericksburg Hospitality House Hotel & Conference Center (2801 Plank Road, 540-786- 2321, frederickburghospitality ) is located in Central Park, which means it’s next door to a plethora of shopping and dining opportunities. The hotel’s amenities include a state-of-the-art business center and Junior Olympic-size outdoor pool.
Dunning Mills Inn (2305C Jefferson Davis Highway, 540-373- 1256, ) is packed with amenities. Located just outside Fredericksburg’s historic district and Central Park, the inn is a bit removed from the hustle and bustle but still just a hop away from the city’s hottest attractions.
LEARN: Steeped in history, Fredericksburg abounds with battlefields, museums and educational sites. Highlights include George Washington’s Ferry Farm (268 Kings Hwy., 540-370-0732). Located just east of Fredericksburg on Virginia 3 in Stafford County on the edge of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm is the site of the first American president’s boyhood home. He lived here from age 6 until his early 20s.
The Mary Washington House (1200 Charles St., 540-373-1569) in Fredericksburg’s historic downtown district is the home George purchased for his mother, Mary Ball Washington.
George Washington’s sister, Betty, and her husband, Fielding Lewis, built and lived in the mansion at Historic Kenmore (1201 Washington Ave., 540-373-3381, ).
Built by George’s younger brother, Charles, the Rising Sun Tavern (1304 Caroline St., 540-371-1494) served as Charles’ home before becoming a drinking establishment.
Civil War buffs have no shortage of opportunities to explore battlefields and trails in Fredericksburg and its surrounding counties. More than 100,000 American casualties resulted from four major Civil War battles that took place in and around the city: The Battle of Fredericksburg, fought on Dec. 13, 1862; the Battle of Chancellorsville, which took place May 1-3, 1863; the Battle of the Wilderness, fought May 5-7, 1864; and the Battle of Spotsylvania Courthouse, which took place May 8-21, 1864.
Also located at the Wilderness Battlefield is Ellwood, famous for being the burial site of Confederate Gen. “Stonewall” Jackson’s left arm. For information on visiting these sites, call the Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor Center at 540-786-2880.
DINE: From upscale to quirky, Fredericksburg has something to tempt everyone’s taste buds.
If you’re in the mood for fine dining, La Petite Auberge (311 William St., 540-371-2727) specializes in traditional French cuisine and regional dishes, serves locally farmed produce, features a menu that changes with the market and provides plenty of ambiance.
The flavor isn’t only in the food at the nostalgic 2400 Diner (2400 Princess Anne St., 540-373-9049). Harking back to the 1950s, when it opened, the diner serves lunch-counter fare in a space that is charmingly vintage but very small. Plan to come early at mealtimes, or be prepared to wait.
Ice cream lovers will not want to pass up a visit to Carl’s (2200 Princess Anne St., 540-372-4457). The nationally recognized roadside stand serves hand-dipped ice cream made with vintage 1940-style machines. Be aware, though, that Carl’s slides its windows shut late November to mid-February.
SHOP: You might not think a town best known for its historic relevance would be so big on shopping, but Fredericksburg has plenty of it. Find memorabilia and mementos mixed with antiques, as well as interesting new additions, such as a new full-service butcher shop and the Capital Ale House in the city’s Historic Downtown District. Just off Interstate 95 on Virginia 3 West, Central Park is a shopper’s dream come true. The complex features more than 200 businesses, including more than 50 eateries. Spotsylvania Towne Centre is also located on Virginia 3 West. The mall, which recently underwent a multimillion-dollar remodel, provides an indoor shopping experience.
Lisa Chinn
