A few years ago, a friend of mine started a new tradition: Thanks-mas.
Thanks-mas is a celebration that falls somewhere between Thanksgiving and Christmas, designed for people who travel on the holidays so they have a chance to gather around the same table during the season.
Only: What to serve?
You want to impress your guests, but you don’t want to risk becoming redundant with either of the “big two.” You also don’t want to break the bank, or your back, both of which you’ll need to make it through the season.
One surprisingly economical (and simple) solution comes from volume 2 of the “Canal House Cooking” series of books, now available in stores and at thecanalhouse . This roast takes some time but not a lot of effort — most of the cooking time is unattended. The sharp chile flavors accessorize the sweet veal beautifully. Shop carefully, and you’ll find quality veal breast for as low as $6 a pound.
Breast of Veal Braised with Chiles
If your roast is too big for your pot, use a heavy roasting pan and you can cover it with foil. Serves 4-6.
Ingredients
8 poblano chiles
1 breast of veal, about 5-6 pounds
2 tablespoons ground cumin
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
3 large yellow onions, sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 can whole peeled plum tomatoes (about 15 ounces)
Large handful of chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Directions
Set the chiles on top of the burner plates on top of a gas stove. Turn on the flame to medium-high heat. Or, set the chiles on a grill over hot coals. Char the skins of the chiles, turning them as they blister and blacken all over. When the chiles are charred, put them into a bowl and cover them to let the fragile skins steam and soften so they are easier to peel off. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, peel and rub off the blackened skin. Pull off the stems, tear the chiles in half, remove the cores and scrape the seeds away from the flesh. Slice the chiles into thick strips.
Preheat the oven to 325. Rub the veal breast all over with cumin and a generous amount of salt and pepper. Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a large heavy pot with a cover over medium-high heat. Add the veal and brown it well on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove it from the pot and set aside.
Add a little more oil to the pot, then add the onions and garlic. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring from time to time, until the vegetables are soft and translucent, about 20 minutes. Add the chiles and tomatoes to the pot, crushing the tomatoes with your hand. Put the veal into the pot bone side down. Cover and cook in the oven until the veal is very tender, about 4 hours. Remove the lid for the last hour of cooking.
Remove the pot from the oven and turn off the heat. Transfer the veal to a cutting board. Remove and discard the rib bones, connective tissue, gristle and any large pieces of fat.
Transfer the chiles and onions from the pot to a bowl with a slotted spoon. Skim off any fat on the surface of the pan juices. Strain the pan juices through a fine mesh sieve, then return the sauce to the pot. Cook over medium-high heat until the sauce has reduced and thickened, about 10 minutes. Return the chiles and onions to the pot. Place the veal on top. Cover and return it to the still-warm oven to keep it hot.
Just before serving, slice the meat on a cutting board, then arrange it on a platter with the onions and chiles. Spoon the sauce on top. Garnish with lots of chopped cilantro. Serve with a stack of warm corn tortillas.
