BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA — We were not the ideal candidates for a late-night tango show in the heart of the Buenos Aires theater district.
I could barely differentiate a tango from a two-step, and Kona, my 16-month-old daughter, while enthusiastic, had a chronic case of the wiggles, making the odds of her sitting through a performance slim to none.
But when a tango legend such as Milena Plebs, who has dedicated half her life to the dance, invites you to her show, you go.
“To dance tango, you to have to go to a place and embrace people,” Plebs had told us earlier that afternoon over tea at the historic El Gato Negro cafe, which was founded in the 1920s as a spice store and still sells (and smells of) spice today. “That’s why I think it’s so big now. It’s sort of a therapy. You discover lots of things of yourself, and the other person, when you are dancing tango.”
During our five-day visit, I found that words typically used to describe the tango — passionate, romantic, intricate, honest — also aptly describe Buenos Aires as a city, with its welcoming, milonga-like atmosphere that makes visitors feel right at home.
It was also (aside from the cobblestones and uneven sidewalks that wreaked havoc on our stroller) the most kid-friendly place I have ever visited, with an appreciation for family that could be felt no matter what neighborhood we were in.
In Recoleta Cemetery, for example, where you’ll go if for no other reason than to see Evita’s grave, groundskeepers meticulously tend to the flowers placed on the tombs, trying to extend what life they can. Stroll down one corridor and encounter an unnavigable passage like something constructed by Edgar Allan Poe; turn down another and find dogs and cats basking in the warm sunshine.
On Sundays in San Telmo, a neighborhood filled with antiques shops, art galleries and cafes, a street fair draws visitors who munch on freshly made churros and chat over the sounds of violins, drums and guitars. They pause to contemplate artwork that covers the sidewalks like confetti.
One evening we were standing in the shadow of the Torre Monumental clock tower when Kona got antsy. She had spent much of the day strapped into her stroller, so I unhooked her and clasped her hand as she plodded barefoot up a hill.
Nearby, a couple of daredevil Argentine brothers were throwing themselves down the hill. Soon, a routine formed: The youngest boy, a 3-year-old named Bruno, would run down the hill and purposely throw himself down at Kona’s feet, prompting a burst of giggles. No words needed for the two to speak the same language, the game went on for an hour, until the sun had been swallowed by the hills of the city.
That’s another thing about Buenos Aires: You wake up wondering how you’ll fill your day and go to bed wondering how you ran out of time.
In addition to the city’s attractions, the food, from beef-grilling parrillas to mouthwatering ice cream, is incredible — I could easily write several stories about its culinary delights.
Among our highlights:
— A supple meat empanada bought for 5 pesos from a street vendor in La Boca, where the colorful buildings greeted us like an open box of crayons.
—A crispy waffle smothered in dulce de leche — a local delicacy — and whipped cream in the river town of Delta, which we accessed by train.
— A croissant and a local Quilmes beer at an open-air cafe along the sprawling Avenida 9 de Julio. (It instantly transported me to Paris.)
— And an unforgettable nine-course meal at La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar, a shining example of the city’s burgeoning culinary scene.
I was a little nervous taking a toddler to a meal like this, but sommelier and server Nicolas Reines welcomed us warmly. He pulled up a high chair and outlined the tasting menu — nine small courses for $45 — in perfect English.
The dishes, while unlike anything my grandma ever made, had a way of satisfying the soul, filled with ingredients that were hearty, complicated and perfectly paired. Some of my favorite dishes included a soft egg bread with white truffle oil and sheep-cheese mousse that smothered my taste buds in yolky warmth; beef cheek so tender I cut it with the edge of its serving spoon; and salty yet juicy cubes of lamb complemented by sweet potatoes and french fries.
By the time dessert came, I was stuffed and Kona was restless, having hit her limit of trying weird food (the salmon skin was a hit; the pork neck was not), playing with my pen and attempting to get the attention of a 6-month-old at the next table.
Still, given the fact that it was a two-hour meal, she handled herself well, which she did most of our trip — even at that late-night tango show.
Called Tramatango, the show was Plebs’ brainchild. She produced, directed and choreographed it, as well as danced in it.
When we met earlier in the day, Plebs had described tango as both “intricate and romantic,” two words I didn’t think went together until I saw her on stage. One minute she twirled with the precision of a ballerina, the next she floated across the stage with her partner, their bodies moving in unison as though they had been dancing together for 300 years.
If you visit Buenos Aires, you can’t help but want to know more about the tango, which developed from European and African influences in lower-echelon areas of Buenos Aires in the late 1800s. As it became more popular, particularly among immigrants, it spread to other parts of the world.
Even from our empty spot on the second-floor balcony (which I picked so we wouldn’t bother anyone), the music resonated to the point that Kona squirmed out of my arms and began to do her own interpretation of the tango.
“In the ’30s, it was considered too erotic,” Plebs said. “In the ’50s and ’60s, it almost disappeared because American music became very popular. Then, in the ’80s, it came back again. It’s got a cycle. Now it’s in a very, very good moment. You can see lots of young people dancing.”
Including a 16-month-old with a serious case of the wiggles.
BUENOS AIRES INSIDER’S GUIDE
BY PLANE: Continental offers direct flights from Houston to Buenos Aires’ Ezeiza International Airport. While a visa is not necessary for visits up to 90 days, the airport charges an entry fee of about $120, which is valid for 10 years. It can be paid in dollars, credit card or traveler’s checks. For more, visit .
DO: A hop-on, hop-off bus service takes visitors to attractions in areas such as La Boca, San Telmo, Puerto Madero and Recoleta. Tickets may be purchased at the ticket office at Florida and Diagonal Norte and cost 50 Argentine pesos (about $13).
BY TRAIN: For an interesting view of Buenos Aires, take a ride on the Tren de la Costa, which covers 10 miles of Argentina’s picturesque coast. The train runs more like an above-ground subway than a luxury train and can be packed, but it’s still worth a trip.
ARTS: Featuring incredible works from Latin American artists, the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, or MALBA, is a highlight.
DANCE: Want to tango? Go straight to the master: Milena Plebs has been performing and teaching for 25 years. .
EAT: Try La Vinería de Gualterio Bolívar’s nine-course tasting menu. Cost, not including wine, is about $45.
Toddler Travel Tips
Traveling with a 16-month-old requires planning. These tips worked for our five-day trip to Buenos Aires:
1. Take only what you can carry: My general rule for traveling alone with my daughter is to take only what I can carry. Typically, that includes a purse, backpack, diaper bag, one suitcase and one umbrella-style stroller. Anything more than that and I’ll have to rely on others for help. While you’ll be surprised by the kindness of strangers when you travel with a baby, you can’t always depend on that to get around.
2. Don’t knock chains: I used to go out of my way to avoid chain hotels, but since I’ve started traveling with my daughter, I’ve embraced them. Sometimes just knowing that you’ll have access to a crib, an English-speaking staff and a 24-hour front desk makes it worth missing out on the trendy boutique hotel down the street.
3. Backpack it up: Rather than trying to lug around several bags for a day of sightseeing, combine all the items you need from your purse and diaper bag in a backpack. By the end of the day, your legs will thank you for it, and you’ll have extra space for any purchases you make along the way.
4. Work in daily downtime: No matter how packed our days were, I made a point to work in nap time and time at the pool every afternoon. Keeping a nap schedule similar to what we had at home and working in at least one activity that Kona loved seemed to help the rest of the day go smoothly.
5. Add an extra day: If you’re going to be traveling with a baby, take the number of days you think you want to spend at your destination and add one more. By doing so, you’ll allow for a slower pace that will keep everyone in better spirits.
