Restaurants are listed alphabetically.
AMERICAN
Fruition
1313 E. Sixth Ave., Denver, 303-831-1962
(Great/Exceptional) Starters $7-$12; entrees $19-$24. In theory, Fruition serves comfort food. In practice, it serves some of the area’s most exquisitely crafted, meticulously detailed dishes, like rich pasta carbonara with house-made cavatelli and perfectly braised pork belly, and crisp-skinned roasted duck breast over delicate carnaroli risotto. Affordable wine list, excellent vanilla pudding, pleasant and hospitable service. Reservations highly recommended. Last reviewed March 2007.
Max Gill and Grill
1053 S. Gaylord St., 303-722-7456,
(Very Good) Appetizers $9-$14; mains $9-$25. Fish freaks and
meat heads come together at this surf-and-turf restaurant on Old
South Gaylord. One of Denver’s best lobster rolls, and a decent filet of beef. Last reviewed November 2008.
Root Down
1600 W. 33rd Ave., 303-993-4200,
(Very Good/Great) Plates $7-$22, with most around $9-$11. An eclectic menu of innovative, flavorful small dishes (many of which are vegetarian) drives this forward-thinking eatery and watering hole, fashioned from a reclaimed garage. Last reviewed March 2009.
Shazz
4262 Lowell Blvd., 303-477-1407,
(Very Good/Great) Appetizers $7-$11; mains $24-$35. Chef Benny Kaplan is one of Denver’s best, and his commitment to locally sourced, sustainable food is commendable. Don’t miss the braised oxtail appetizer, served over asiago grits, and hit the bar for a signature cocktail mixed with house-made ingredients such as grenadine and orgeat. Last reviewed April 2009.
Twelve
2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287,
(Great/Exceptional) Entrees $22-$28. Wedged into a tiny storefront in the northern reaches of LoDo, Twelve changes its menu monthly — 12 times a year. So don’t get attached to a favorite dish. Instead, have your socks knocked off by chef Jeff Osaka’s brilliant technical skills and instinctive flavor-play. Last reviewed February 2009.
EUROPEAN
Bistro One
1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602,
(Very Good) Appetizers $5-$9; mains $14-$22. Smart cocktails start supper at this contemporary neighborhood bistro, where standard bistro fare (steak frites) shares menu space with more innovative dishes. Clever cocktails and a small, user- friendly wine list round out the experience. Last reviewed December 2008.
Bistro Vendôme
1420 Larimer St., 303-825-3232,
(Great) Appetizers $6-$16; main courses $15-$23. Vendôme, which boasts one of downtown Denver’s loveliest patios, also serves some of Denver’s most pleasant French cuisine. The savory herb-roasted chicken and delicate pan-roasted veal are standouts on the menu. which also includes foie gras pate and escargots. Manageable all-French wine list and popular brunch. Last reviewed July 2007.
Brasserie Felix
3901 Tennyson St., 303-953-2401,
(Very good) Appetizers $5.95-$12.95, mains $14.95-$20.95. A very good example of the Americanized French brasserie, with accessible and relevant fare. Small but serviceable wine list. Last reviewed April 2009.
ASIAN
India’s Pearl
1475 S. Pearl St., 303-777-1533
(Very Good/Great) Starters $3.95-$9.95; entrees $10.95-$24.95. India’s Pearl has an extensive wine list that proves Indian food pairs beautifully with wines of all hues. Last reviewed October 2008.
Taste of Thailand
504 E. Hampden Ave, Englewood, 303-762-9112
(Very Good) Nothing over $15. Fresh, tasty dishes are assembled with a light hand, and spice is applied with precision. Lunch specials every day, perfect for Swedish Medical Center employees across the street. Last reviewed March 2008.
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN
Las Cazuelas
6757 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-935-2043
(Very Good) Nothing over $10. This family-friendly neighborhood Mexican restaurant features a greatest-hits menu of Mexican-restaurant favorites: rellenos, carnitas, enchiladas and tamales, plus an addictive, fresh-tasting, pork-laden green chile. Brisk takeout business, too. Last reviewed February 2007.
CARIBBEAN
Eight Rivers Lodo
1550 Blake St., 303-623-3422,
(Very Good) Appetizers $7-$13; mains $15-$19. Denver’s very best rum list anchors this downtown homage to Jamaican cuisine. Think jerk chicken, jerk pork, jerk steak and a beautifully rich-spicy oxtail stew. Happy hour on weekdays. Last reviewed December 2008.
LATIN
Limon
1618 E. 17th Ave., 303-322-0898,
(Very Good/Great) Entrees mostly under $20. Set on a hopping strip of East 17th Avenue, Limon serves innovative, contemporary Peruvian food and classic, refreshing cocktails, most notably traditional pisco sours. Come at happy hour for the best deals or later for a quieter dinner. Last reviewed February 2008.
PIZZA
Virgilio’s
7986 W. Alameda Ave., Lakewood, 303-985-2777
(Very Good) Pizzas (14- or 18-inch) $8.99-$19.49; appetizers and sides $1.99-$8.99. Don’t fill up on garlic knots, because you’ll need room for pizza. Crusts are buttery, salty and nicely cooked. Toppings are straightforward and simple. Gluten- free menu too. Last reviewed April 2006.
Our star system:
: Exceptional
: Great
: Very Good
: Good
