On one side of the room, a hen party of 10 young-ish women in tank tops and sundresses is drinking pink wine and reminiscing, vigorously and in a high register, about their last gathering, which resulted in one of the members’ losing her watch. (I was across the room, but I heard the whole story.)
In another corner, a man with his polo shirt tucked into his jeans accompanies a young woman — modestly covered with only her eyes exposed — to a booth where she sits with a toddler. She waves her companion away; he takes a seat next to a friend several tables over.
In my corner, I sip my Kingfisher lager and wait for my dosa and observe.
Just another Monday night at India’s Restaurant in Tiffany Plaza.
A dosa, which very few restaurants in Denver serve, is a typical South Indian dish (most food historians trace its history to the Tamil population, now in present-day India and Sri Lanka), a way-bigger-than-your-head crepe made with rice flour, cooked just barely crispy and folded around fillings like lentils, spinach, potatoes and, of course, spices. It is a new and welcome addition to India’s menu — along with a few other South Indian specialties like medu vada (a lightly fried doughnut made with lentil flour and served here with a tamarind-rich sambar dipping sauce and a robust tomato chutney).
India’s Restaurant, once located in Tamarac Square but now in the deepest recesses of Tiffany Plaza, has toiled determinedly over the past year or so to pull itself out of its rut of mediocrity (a rut that followed several stellar years as one of Denver’s best Indian restaurants). Lackluster crowds, a dull (but expansive) menu, and dingy digs plagued the place.
But the restaurant has persisted, stubbornly, and the effort is beginning to pay off.
The new spirit is reflected in the small but smart menu additions. Besides the South Indian specialties, India’s is now peddling a handful of “Indo-Chinese” dishes, like Manchurian Chicken, which is a hybrid sweet-sour-curry chicken that’s both perplexing and hypnotizing.
The “old” menu is still mostly solid. Typical fare like saag paneer (spinach and fresh cheese stew) and lamb boti kebab are passable. Vindaloo dishes are notable. Curries are hit and miss, mostly hit (special props go to the mushroom curry and the Kashmiri lamb curry, rogan josh). Daal (lentil soup) is soul-warming if sometimes mushy. All are priced commensurate with other Indian restaurants in town, in the high single digits for small plates, and the low double digits for mains.
The “new” men, however, sparkles. Even if you insist on ordering a favorite from the old lineup, do try a dosa for the table. (Note to gluten-free diners: The dosa is made with rice, not wheat. Good news for you.)
India’s struggles mightily with service. Nothing happens fast here. From the right perspective, this could be seen as a positive — at least part of your dinner’s likely being made, rather than just scooped from a pot. But as your first beer disappears and you’ve still had nothing resembling naan on your table, you begin to get frustrated.
It’s not for lack of trying. Few are the restaurants where you’ll see staffers moving faster and covering more floor space than at India’s. But for whatever reason (not enough hands, flawed systems, your guess here) food does not spring from the kitchen with much speed.
India’s location is another significant drawback. It’s tucked back there beside the discount movie theater, in the last, decrepit vestiges of what was once Tiffany Plaza shopping center. You’d never find it unless you knew where to look. Inside, the restaurant is warm and comfortable, so stay optimistic as you approach; your reward is a dosa.
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India’s Restaurant
Indian
7400 E. Hampden Ave., unit F (in Tiffany Plaza, near the movie theater), 303-755-4284,
** stars
Atmosphere: Richly decorated, big and loud, with booths, tables and a bar area. Can get busy at peak times.
Service: Not speedy. Friendly, but not speedy.
Prices: Typical for Indian restaurants in Denver. Plan to spend $5-$9 for small plates, $10 and up for main dishes.
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:15 p.m., Saturday noon-2:15 p.m.; Dinner: Monday- Thursday 5:30-9:15 p.m., Friday- Saturday 5:30-9:45 p.m., Sunday 5:30-8:45 p.m.
Details: Good for large parties. No reservations needed. Order extra and take some home for lunch.
Three visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
