One of the frustrating things for a chef is the lack of sync between the seasons for local produce and people’s expectations of them.
For example, most people are ready for tomatoes sometime in June, when the first heat wave arrives, but local tomatoes aren’t abundant and delicious until August, and are often at their peak in September, when diners’ thoughts turn to potatoes and apples and hard squashes.
Corn and squash in most peoples’ minds are like seersucker — they’re ignored after Labor Day. This is a pity, because Olathe corn, the pride of Colorado and some of the finest that I’ve tasted, is widely available until the end of September. So is local yellow squash, which because of its color, juiciness and sweet, cornlike flavor, is a perfect match for corn.
I like to combine the two in a soup with just a hint of fresh ginger and homemade curry powder to bring out the flavor of the vegetables and a touch of white wine and sour cream to make the flavors dance in the mouth.
Note: If you don’t have time to make your own curry powder, you can get it at my favorite spice store, Savory Spice (locations in Denver, Littleton and Boulder).
Olathe Corn and Yellow Squash Soup
Makes 3 quarts.
Ingredients
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter
1 large yellow onion, diced
Salt
1 tablespoon minced ginger
8 ears Olathe corn, shucked, corn cut off cob, 4 cobs halved and reserved
8 medium yellow squash, washed, halved lengthwise and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
4 cups chicken broth
2 cups water
2 tablespoons curry powder (recipe follows)
1/2 cup sour cream
Directions
To make soup: In a heavy-bottomed 6-quart pot set over low-medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, and stir well to coat with butter. Sweat 10 minutes.
Add the ginger, and sweat one minute. Toss in the corn and squash and a pinch of salt. Sweat about 10 minutes. Add the white wine and simmer 5 minutes. Add the corn cobs, bay leaf, chicken broth and water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer about 20 minutes.
Cool the soup slightly. Remove cobs and bay leaf, then blend the soup in batches, adding some of the curry powder and sour cream with each batch. Blend until very smooth. Serve hot or cold.
Curry Powder
Ingredients
4 tablespoons cumin seeds
4 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
Directions
In a skillet over medium heat, toast cumin, coriander and mustard until fragrant. Transfer to a spice grinder and blend until smooth. Mix into other spices and place in covered container until ready to use.
