Two unlikely events coincided recently: the last of the fresh sweet corn and the opening of Chilean author Isabel Allende’s saga “The House of the Spirits” last Friday at the Denver Center Theatre Company’s Space Theatre.
The story covers four generations of political, social and familial upheaval in the South American country. Allende went on to write 17 more novels, many of which deal with Chile in some way. Her 1997 memoir, “Aphrodite,” delves into “the love of food and the food of love” but does not mention pastel de choclo, her homeland’s humble meat-and-corn casserole. (Chileans use the Quecha word “choclo” for “corn.”)
Exploring the origins of pastel de choclo, food blogger Jim Stuart, a North American anthropologist who lives in Chile, quotes from Allende’s 2004 novel, “Ines of My Soul”: “Catalina and I begin making empanadas. Wheat flour was very dear, but we learned how to make them from corn meal. … The strong aroma of meat, fried onion, cumin and baked dough soaked into my skin so deeply that I have never lost it. I will die smelling like an empanada.”
The meat filling for pastel de choclo employs the same savory seasoning as Chilean empanadas. On , Stuart calls pastel de choclo “mestizo cooking at its most straightforward: It combines the filling for Spanish empanadas with a crust of the corn dough used to make humitas, the indigenous tamales of the Andean cultures.”
“The House of the Spirits” plays the Space Theatre through Oct. 23.
Pastel de Choclo (Chilean Corn Pie)
This traditional Chilean casserole incorporates sweet and savory, with the smokiness of cumin. The chicken is usually left on the bone, but you could use shredded meat if you prefer. It’s traditional to use olives and raisins, but feel free to adapt to your taste. It’s usually served with “ensalada chilena,” the Chilean salad of sliced tomatoes and thinly sliced onions. Makes 12 servings.
Ingredients
6 large ears of corn, kernels cut into a bowl with liquid
16 leaves fresh basil, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons butter
1/2-1 cup milk
1 large onion, chopped
3 tablespoons oil
1 pound lean ground beef
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
1 cup black olives (optional)
1 cup raisins (optional)
4 chicken thighs or 2 boneless breasts, seasoned with salt, pepper and cumin, browned
2 tablespoons sugar
Directions
In a saucepan, heat grated corn and liquid, chopped basil, salt and butter. Add milk a little at a time, stirring until the mixture thickens. Simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
In a skillet, saute onions in oil until golden, add ground beef, salt, pepper and cumin, and cook until brown.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Spread beef mixture in 3-quart ovenproof serving dish. Top with sliced egg, olives and raisins (if using). Place chicken on top of egg. Cover with corn mixture. Sprinkle sugar over the top. Bake 30-35 minutes until the top is golden brown.
Kristen Browning-Blas: 303-954-1440 or kbrowning@denverpost.com
