Traditionally, gnocchi are a kind of potato dumpling: a mixture of baked or boiled potato, flour and egg briefly blanched, then either sauteed or rewarmed in boiling water then tossed in a sauce.
Some of the potato can be replaced with another starchy vegetable — yam, winter squash, beets — but the principle is the same.
The trouble with the traditional gnocchi (I speak as a chef who’s had them on the menu almost constantly for the Past five years) is that you are at the mercy of the potato. Depending on the quality of the potato, the same cook can make the same recipe and have the gnocchi be light and fluffy, or dense and starchy or too soft or inedibly gummy.
My solution to the ongoing potato problem is to make gnocchi without potatoes altogether. Gnocchi alla Romana are made with semolina, a flour milled from the endosperm of the wheat plant. Semolina, which is yellowish in color, has a sweet flavor reminiscent of cornmeal, and actually makes a delicious porridge.
In this recipe, the semolina is whisked into simmering milk and butter, then transferred to an electric mixer, where egg yolks are incorporated one at a time. The process is quite similar to French pate á choux — the base for cream puffs and eclairs. The mixture is chilled and spread on a sheet tray, then cut with a circle cutter, then sauteed and briefly baked.
The semolina gnocchi are delicious — substantially yet nicely lightened by the egg. I like to serve these with a meat ragu — either a Bolognese or a stew of beef, lamb or pork, with lots of grated cheese on top.
John Broening cooks at Duo and Olivea restaurants in Denver.
Semolina Gnocchi
Adapted from “Il Viaggio di Vetri,” by Marc Vetri. Serves 4.
Ingredients
2 1/3 cups whole milk
1/3 cup unsalted butter
1 heaping teaspoon salt
2/3 cup semolina flour
2/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
2 egg yolks
Few grinds fresh nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Grease a small baking sheet. In a small saucepan, bring milk, butter and salt to a boil over medium heat. Whisk in semolina, stirring constantly and turn heat to low.
Cook 10 minutes, stirring often. Stir in parmesan. The gnocchi mixture is ready when it starts to pull away from the sides.
Cool mixture for a few seconds, then transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. On medium speed, incorporate the egg yolks one at a time. Fold in the nutmeg and pepper.
Spread the gnocchi mixture on the greased baking sheet, taking care to make sure that is spread out smoothly and evenly (an offset spatula dipped in hot water will do the job nicely).
Chill thoroughly. Cut out the gnocchi with a small 1 1/2-inch circle cutter. Transfer the circles to a container lined with parchment paper. (Note: the recipe up to this point can be prepared 24 hours ahead of time.)
To prepare the gnocchi:
Preheat oven to 350.
In a large nonstick pan, heat a little butter. When the butter is foaming, add the gnocchi, being careful not to crowd the pan. Cook the gnocchi on one side until the edges are lightly brown. Place the pan with the gnocchi in the oven for about 5 minutes. Touch the tops of the gnocchi — they should be warm.
Carefully flip the gnocchi (a small offset pastry spatula should do the job). Transfer to a serving platter and nap the gnocchi with tomato sauce, a meat ragu, or grated cheese. Serve immediately.
