Old-school cute invaded the restaurant and nightlife industry some years back, but it may have reached its apex in Denver with Green Russell (1422 Larimer St.).
The latest spot from local restaurant impresario Frank Bonnano hits the oh-my-god- so-precious bull’s-eye with its modern take on a 1920s speakeasy. Like food trucks, cupcakes and the resurrection of classic cocktails, Green Russell casts a loving look on the 20th century but adds a 2010 twist or two.
Getting into Green Russell is the cute part. Located near Bistro Vendome and Lime, just off Larimer Street, Green Russell’s only hint at its existence is a simple sign hanging over a small flight of steps. The bar’s name is printed without explanation — no “bar” or “cocktails” or “lounge” as tip-offs.
Head down the stairs, and you’re suddenly in Wednesday’s Pie, the “front” for Green Russell. It’s a plain room with a small counter and a few places to sit and, uh, eat pie. The store, which is actually open on Wednesdays, is empty at night. A yellow “caution, wet floor” stand-up might be sitting on the shiny black-and-white tile, as if the quiet shop’s been swept up and closed for the day.
At the back of the room is a swinging stainless door that appears to lead to the kitchen or a storage area. Look closer: the door says “Green Russell” on it. Push through, and it’s a different, much cooler world on the other side.
Naturally, since Prohibition ended, oh, 77 years ago, there’s no need for a front operation to hide the gin-soaked joviality inside Green Russell. It’s just an adorable touch, one that’s been used to great effect in other cities with “secret” bars and underground retro speakeasies.
Unlike an illegal Roaring Twenties watering hole, Green Russell is serene and controlled. A host greets guests the moment they enter the bar. There’s no standing allowed at the bar, at least not at this point, so it’s best to make a reservation or be condemned to waiting for a seat — without a drink.
Cellphone use is discouraged; a phone booth is provided for people who must make a call. Be careful not to move around too much, too. On a recent visit, a curious friend who wanted to peek quickly into the next room was intercepted by a worried-looking — but very polite — bartender before he could get far.
That’s how serious they are at Green Russell about maintaining the mood. It’s dimly lit, the chairs are comfortable and jazz is softly playing. There is no room here for drunken louts or shrieking bachelorette parties. Remain calm, chat with your friends, and drink your drink — it’s all very simple.
The cocktail menu deserves a good look. No appletinis or Jäger bombs here. Instead, the masterful bartenders make recommendations from the menu based on your tastes, or just mix up the drink of your choice. The urge is therefore strong to give one of Green Russell’s house specialties a try. The “Jalisco Sour,” for example, is a subtler take on the standard margarita: blanco tequila, mezcal, locally produced Leopold Brothers peach whiskey, fresh grapefruit and lime juices, and a dash of black-pepper syrup. It arrives in an elegant little glass, the rim half-salted, half-unsalted, eliminating the debate on that ingredient. It’s deceptively delicious and loaded with booze.
You can easily lose track of time at Green Russell, enveloped in the comfort of soft music, nostalgia and sexy lighting. Soon, though, it’s time to leave, and the bill arrives. It is not cute. But it’s worth it.
Dance it off.
Work off some post-Thanksgiving poundage at Beta (1909 Blake St.) on Saturday, when house-music head Michael Woods pays a visit.
A classically trained musician, Woods found his way to electronic music through the rave and club scenes of London — when he wasn’t playing percussion with the London Symphony Orchestra.
Tickets are $10 in advance at groovetickets.
