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Nutritional yeast, unlike baker’s yeast, is not used for baking and is meant to be eaten raw. It is grown on enriched molasses and is often used by vegans as a kind of cheese substitute because of its rich, tangy flavor.

My wife introduced me to nutritional yeast. The first time I ate it, she sprinkled it on a salad of mesclun tossed with cherry tomatoes, sliced red onion, good estate bottled olive oil and a viscous 20-year-old balsamic vinegar. She asked me to guess what the mystery ingredient was, and I, of course, said I thought it was some kind of cheese, probably cheddar or parmesan.

When she told me it was nutritional yeast, I was surprised. If I associated it with anything, it was hippie food-carob, and fruit leather and seiten and heavy, bland stews made with obscure grains and legumes. It was instructive to taste it in an unaccustomed setting, delicious combined with what I thought of as “gourmet” ingredients.

We’ve recently started eating nutritional yeast another way — as a topping for buttered popcorn. If you eat butter but not cheese, nutritional yeast binds with the butter on the popcorn to give a tang and mouthfeel uncannily like cheesy popcorn.

Nutritional yeast is available in the bulk-food section of most gourmet supermarkets.

Green Salad with Cherry Tomatoes, Red Onion and Nutritional Yeast

Serves 4

Ingredients

4     ounces mixed salad greens

1/4   cup thinly sliced red onions

16    cherry tomatoes, halved

2     tablespoons nutritional yeast

3     tablespoons good quality olive oil

1     tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon aged balsamic vinegar

      Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions

Combine ingredients in large mixing bowl. Serve immediately.

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