Lou’s Food Bar 1851 W. 38th Ave., 303-458-0336,
The look: Cavernous, wide-open room with concrete floors, a ring of booths, two bars (a very long drinks bar, a more intimate salumi bar), a wide-open field of tables. Little extraneous adornment, though a clever lighting scheme employs desk lights hanging from the ceiling.
On the menu: Franco-American roadhouse fare with a contemporary urban spin courtesy of Denver restaurant fixture Frank Bonanno and his team. Country grub such as fried chicken, homemade sausages and a pleasant array of fresh, homemade cheeses shares space with such uptown French favorites as escargots with gruyère and rabbit chasseur pâte. Salads, soups and craft cocktails round out the menu. Star dish: a new contender for Denver’s best roast chicken (get it with the day’s vegetable — lucky you if today’s veg is carrot medallions — and a side of fries). Watch yourself: Plates are reasonably priced, but they can add up. Stick to just an entree and a glass of wine to keep the bill under control.
The vibe: Lively, verging on loud. Enthusiastic crowds fill the parking lot early. If you’re with a big party, grab a table or booth; if you’re dining u deux, have your tête-a-tête at the bar.
When to visit: No reservations, so come early or late if it’s a weekend night. Lou’s is also now open for lunch. Tucker Shaw
