Hit the beach, shop, scout for celebrities.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Santa Monica may very well offer other things to do around its bay-side locale — which is surrounded on the other three sides by the city of Los Angeles — but the truth is, the majority of people who visit here do one of those three things and often all of them in rapid succession.
Deviations from this itinerary may include popping into one of the many art galleries, checking out a nightclub and maybe catching a show or a concert — and, of course, there will be dining in many fabulous restaurants — but really, you can do those things at home.
It’s not just anywhere that you can work on your tan as a way to relax from hours of frenzied purchasing at pretty much any store you can think of in the free world — and then as you walk across the sole-scorching sand to maybe head back to the Third Street Promenade shopping district one more time to see if those open-toed pumps are still a must-have, there’s Anna Paquin of “True Blood” tooling along the Strand on a townie bike.
The truth is, the appeal of Santa Monica is that you get the thrill of being on the West Coast without the chaos, traffic and pollution of Los Angeles. Here’s how to get the most out of the experience.
The beach
Santa Monica has 3.5 miles of beach, and the surf here is rather mild — ideal for boogie boarding or bodysurfing. It’s a big, wide beach, and so if you’re walking from your hotel, this isn’t the best time to carry the boombox, a cooler filled with watermelons and tri-fold lawn chairs.
There are advantages to settling in close to the famous Santa Monica Pier — namely, that you can grab something to eat there and use the facilities. But no matter how close you think you are to the pier after you set up your beach towels, it too will feel like a day’s journey to actually reach it.
Did I mention that it’s a big, wide beach?
Fruit vendors will astound you with their capacity to traverse this big, wide beach intoning, “Mango, mango” for hours on end, and if mango is your heart’s desire, bring cash. Otherwise, headphones.
The best time to visit is anytime except for what the locals call “May Gray” and “June Gloom,” which is when the daily morning fog seems to go on forever. Otherwise, the city is known for an average of 310 days of sun a year.
Even when it isn’t sunny, the beach pulses with activity. The Strand — a 22-mile, paved bike path that runs from Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades at the north end to Torrance County Beach in Torrance to the south — features a steady stream of cyclists, rollerbladers and joggers, so much so that crossing it can be as dicey as crossing a city street. Many of the hotels offer bike rentals, and there are several rental shops along the beach, as well.
Free public volleyball courts and random playground setups offer other diversions, but it’s worth stopping by to check out the action at the Original Muscle Beach, which has been renovated to focus once again on gymnastics (Muscle Beach Venice is a half-mile south and is the bodybuilding beach).
The pier is a day of activity itself. Actually two adjoining piers, the main attractions are the carousel, the Ferris wheel and the Playland Arcade, which contains contemporary and old-timey games. You can Whack-a-Mole and try your luck at Skee-Ball and the somewhat rotting pinball games, and there are several booths where you can get your photo taken in strips.
The best part is, the place still takes quarters.
Shopping
You’ll need a lot more than quarters for Santa Monica’s three shopping districts, which have distinct personalities tied to their stores and settings.
The Downtown District features the Third Street Promenade, with its three-block pedestrian mall that runs between the hustle and bustle of Wilshire Boulevard and Broadway. The Promenade offers oversized retail operations of the major chains: Old Navy, TJ Maxx, Urban Outfitters, Forever 21, Esprit.
The newest addition to the retail scene, the revamped, Frank Gehry- designed, open-air Santa Monica Place that opened in August, was being whispered about in almost reverential tones during our visit, the week of the grand opening.
It has since become a meet-and- greet spot for locals and tourists, partly because the inviting space offers live music, happy hours, yoga and free movies on its upper, ocean- view decks.
“We’ve been waiting for this for forever,” said Viv Ciancio, a local who along with her boyfriend had sneaked into our hotel pool one night to cool off. “The space had become like a demilitarized zone. It was creepy and empty for so long, and it’s so great to have more shopping.”
Santa Monica Place is anchored by Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, and also features Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Love Culture and AllSaints. On May 20, it will launch The Market, a collection of independent, high-end purveyors of artisan foods, such as cheeses, breads and meats.
On the north end of town, tony Montana Avenue has a genteel feel, the tree-lined streets dotted by boutique shops, exclusive jewelers, trattorias and cafes.
The third district, Main Street to the south, has a groovier vibe, with bookstores and coffee shops interspersed among funky spaces selling handcrafted handbags and random Asian imports.
Celebrity sightings
The concierges at the Shangri-La Hotel told my daughters that if we wanted a guaranteed celebrity sighting, our best bet was to head to Malibu, 8 miles west of Santa Monica.
We weren’t that motivated — it would cut into our beach time, and a week after our visit, a dated photo in People magazine confirmed that we had indeed breezed past Paquin on the Strand. But everywhere we went, locals had advice about what celebrities could be found where.
“You’ll see Meg Ryan and Kyra Sedgwick, also Geena Davis, eating out quite a bit around here,” said Jason Hogarth, a server for 10 years at several Santa Monica eateries who shared his celebrity-sighting tips. “Jennifer Garner and Ben (Affleck), they’re out on lunch dates, take their little girl out to the parks and stuff all the time here. Anna Paquin and Stephen Moyer, they’re regulars. You’ll see her shopping, out on the bike path all the time.”
Hogarth said he always tells visitors to head to smaller, trendy eateries and boutique shops, not the larger tourist-trap restaurants near the beach or the bigger chain stores. “Famous people usually avoid the crowded, crazy places,” he said. “That seems like a no-brainer, right? Look for the more low-key spots that are hot but not overrun. And keep your eyes peeled for movie shoots, they’re happening at random times. On the beach, on the street.”
Hogarth adds that the key to a successful celebrity encounter is to be cool.
“They’re skittish,” he said. “If they see people acting all weird, they’re going to duck away. You have to just go about your business, and if you can snap a shot, that’s cool, but don’t be a jerk about it. They just want to be out enjoying the day too.”
Kyle Wagner: 303-954-1599, travel@denverpost.com,
Santa Monica Insider’s Guide
GET THERE: Most major airlines fly nonstop into Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) from Denver International Airport (DEN). Round-trip fares start at $213.
GET AROUND: You don’t need a car in Santa Monica unless you plan to hit places such as Universal Studios (18 miles) or Disneyland (45 miles). Otherwise, everything is a cab ride away, but keep in mind that short- distance trips can sometimes be expensive because of traffic. It’s not like driving in Los Angeles, but Broadway, Colorado Avenue and Ocean Avenue can get pretty clogged up. Beverly Hills (8 miles), Hollywood (12 miles), Malibu (8 miles) and Venice Beach (.5 mile) are easy jaunts, but LAX (8 miles) will take a good half-hour and cost $35-$45.
STAY: The Shangri-La (1301 Ocean Ave., 877-999-1301, ) is a great option (see Room Report, Page 2T). Not only is it within walking distance of the beach, but Whole Foods is a few blocks away, and the farmers market is outside the door. That comes in handy because the suites have stoves, refrigerators and cozy living rooms, perfect for settling in and economizing on breakfast and lunch. Rates start at $277 per night for a queen or king and $318 for a suite.
Embassy Hotel Apartments (1001 Third St., 310-394-1279, ) are well-situated in a quiet area halfway between the beach and the Third Street Promenade shopping district. Older and a bit dated, the rooms are clean and spacious, and for another $35, the suites with kitchens are a worthy upgrade. Free Wi-Fi. Rates start at $190 for a room, $225 for a suite.
DINE: Huckleberry Bakery & Cafe (1014 Wilshire Blvd., 310-451-2311, ) does three meals a day (closed Mondays) but it’s the breakfasts that are especially delicious, because the baked goods at this whimsically decorated space run by pastry chef Zoe Nathan are remarkable — bacon biscuits, Valrhona chocolate-filled croissants, and moist-yet-crumbly teacakes. Pair them with soft-baked eggs with roasted tomato sauce and a cup of Caffe Luxxe coffee.
The Lobster (1602 Ocean Ave., 310-458-9294, ) answers the question “Where do I get good seafood here by the sea?” Yes, it looks like a tourist trap, it feels like one, and the prices, sheesh. But the good news is, we took down crustaceans twice here, and they nailed it both times. Good service, nice sides, but really, it’s all about the lobster, and it’s killer. They get kudos for their ocean-friendly ways, as well, and the views are among the best in town.
Sushi Roku (1401 Ocean Ave., 310-458-4771, ) is a hip, inviting Japanese eatery that sends out creative rolls and entrees, with particular attention paid to daily specials. The service is spot-on too, and desserts are nicely done — the caramelized banana-custard tart with chocolate gelato was just right.
PLAY: The beach: If you have time, the 22-mile paved bike path called The Strand is a great way to get some exercise and see the water and the towns along the route. Check with your hotel; some offer free or reasonably priced bike rentals with your stay. Along the beach, Perry’s () also rents bikes and rollerblades ($10 per hour, $25 all day). They have boogie boards, as well.
If you don’t want to lug all of your stuff back and forth, check out the Beach Butler (310-939-0000), which will set up chairs, towels, umbrellas, drinks, you name it, at a designated time and location for you. Packages start at $50 for two; for $100, you get to keep the towels and boxed lunches are included.
SHOPPING: We planned our trip for back-to-school sales, and this is where being a frequent flier paid off — on the way, we carried on only bathing suits, flip-flops and one outfit, stuffing the rest of the carry-on bags with collapsible duffels. On the return, we didn’t have to pay for checked bags, and packed the collapsibles with purchases.
Pace yourself. For instance, we planned a full day at each shopping district but didn’t take into account the fact that Santa Monica Place — with fun shops that we couldn’t afford but wanted to browse, like Betsey Johnson, Michael Kors and Juicy Couture — needed its own day.
MORE INFO: ; Santa Monica Place: ; Third Street Promenade: ; Main Street Shopping District: ; Montana Avenue Shopping District:
Kyle Wagner
