Linger 2030 W. 30th Ave., 303-993-3120, . Open 4 p.m.-close Tuesday- Friday, 5:30-close Saturday.
The look: Call it design-as-showbiz. This sprawling, airy, ornate three-level room is Denver’s most extravagant restaurant build-out in recent memory. A sense of whimsy colors every fixture, from the lights to the seats to the surfaces; the showstopping piece is the shiny steel kitchen housing a lineup of busy cooks. You’ll have to squint to see the clever clues to this building’s former life as a mortuary (bar tables made from casket-rollers are one), but you won’t have to strain to see the spectacular view of downtown Denver — or the even better views of Denver’s best-dressed.
On the menu: Enterprising and intricate takes on international street fare, from Pad Thai to samosas to tacos — all with a twist. Owner and chef Justin Cucci, who also helms the operation at Root Down, brings his sophisticated sensibility and razor-sharp attention to detail to the dishes; operations chef Daniel Asher oversees their execution. Choosing what to eat requires a leap off the deep end, but the multilayered cuisine (sweet-spicy duck wings with shaved fennel and celery-root ranch dressing! puffed rice and crispy lentil noodles with melon raita and tamarind chutney!) is produced with measured hands. The confident kitchen demands your trust — give it, because it will (mostly) pay off. Like at Root Down, you’re safe bringing mixed company here: There are plenty of vegan, gluten-free, nut-free and raw dishes on the menu, none of which is segregated as an afterthought.
The vibe: Feverish anticipation has filled the house during Linger’s early days. Expect plenty of seeing and being-seen. (Wear those new shoes.) Lighting is flattering, music is global-lounge cool.
When to visit: Make a reservation for supper, but come early to spend a few minutes in the bar upstairs to watch the lights come on downtown. On a warm night, they roll open the windows and let the breezes blow in.
