CAPE COD, Mass. — As I waded into the gray Atlantic Ocean along a surrealistically foggy beach, my three East Coast high-school buddies clad in long pants and sneakers thought maybe decades of living in thin mountain air had destroyed more than a few of my brain cells.
I, on the other hand, had no idea why these wimps were dressed for winter in the first week of September. The ocean off the coast of the expansive 40-mile Cape Cod National Seashore was actually warmer than any glacier-fed mountain stream.
Maybe chick lit is all about sunny days in beach chairs, only bothering to get up for spa visits. Our idea of a perfect (middle-aged) girls getaway was our own Farmingdale (N.Y.) High School reunion.
We would have been content in the middle of Kansas unlocking our dusty hard drives of high-school angst and joys. But we wanted to do something special. As the only landlocked one, I thought nothing could be more special than Cape Cod.
The sea air, endless beach vistas and the freshest and best seafood collection made it even more so.
Along the way, the two Massachusetts residents in the group rediscovered the joys of the area, while the adopted South Carolinian thought it was nice but cold, and I found it to be the ideal bargain escape.
Here’s the key to the best vacation ever per dollar: Although we had e-mailed each other with ideas of bed and breakfasts, exploring the Maine coast or meeting in New York City to see some shows, the most practical (and least cramped) arrangement turned out to be rental property on Cape Cod.
Unlike many tourist destinations, Cape Cod is almost devoid of rows of sterile, budget chain hotels, except for the pricey, centrally located Hyannis.
Rental specialists offer accommodations from condos to B&Bs to guest houses, cottages and full-size homes for extended family reunions. Worry not, though: There also are upscale resort properties and boutique luxury hotels to satisfy those with no budget constraints.
If the primary law of real estate is location, location, location, Cape Cod rates are both a function of waterfront proximity and calendar, calendar, calendar. High season is — depending on the property — at minimum mid-July to late August or all of July through Labor Day week.
We hit Labor Day week. A two- bedroom, two-bathroom townhouse, with the Ocean Edge Resort and Golf Club in our backyard, was $800 for the week. Although the resort markets to families in the height of summer season, substitute a ladies reunion or a guys week out on the golf course and that comes to $200 per person.
In high season, the posted rate for the same unit was over $1,600, still a steal for a week at $400 per visitor.
Luxury hotel rooms are far more steep.
Plenty of fun activities
There is no lack of activities or sights on the cape. It claims 566 miles of beachfront. Every type of boating and every water sport imaginable — in the ocean, and on the bays and inland fresh water ponds — is available.
The shoreline is dotted with lighthouses. Visiting all of them is project in itself.
On land along U.S. 6 are a series of British-sounding towns. Each has a Main Street with quaint New England architecture, shops, galleries and dining.
I suspect the golf balls don’t carry in the humidity the way they soar in Colorado. Then again, we don’t have moss-encrusted trees lining lush fairways. The ocean breeze and views can’t be beat. Don’t care for golf? There are bike trails and wildlife sanctuaries to occupy the days.
If Italy is shaped like a boot, the main part of Cape Cod is a right arm doing a curl at a 90-degree angle pointing north.
We were based in Brewster in the crook of the arm, less than a two- hour drive from Logan Airport in Boston. We stocked up on wine, breakfast supplies, snacks and a birthday cake. We all have birthdays this year.
First we checked out one of the National Seashore centers. And set out for the beach. Then we were off to the far north tip or “fist” of the cape, Provincetown.
Lunch was a landmark Lobster Pot, Cape Cod’s historic answer to Miami Beach’s specialty house (now chain) Joe’s Stone Crab. There are lots of black-and-white photos on the walls, and the place has the ability to accommodate a long line of clientele. Tim’s Clam Chowder is the signature dish.
Then we dodged the raindrops to browse the galleries and souvenir stores.
The next afternoon the sun made an appearance after lunch. We found ourselves on the “elbow” of the cape in Chatham. The water was almost Caribbean blue. In the distance we could spot the sea lions gathering on a barrier island, and we could hear the sound of them barking over the breaking waves.
The only regret of the trip was that the weather kept us from getting on one of the many ferries to visit Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket.
Golf and a ferry can wait until the next reunion — which can’t come soon enough.
Natalie Meisler: 303-954-1295 or nmeisler@denverpost.com
Cape Cod Insider’s Guide
Get there: United, Frontier and Southwest all have Denver-Boston nonstop routes. It’s a slightly shorter drive from Providence, R.I., but there are no nonstop flights from Denver to Providence. There’s also a ferry from Boston to Provincetown that advertises 90-minute trips. That’s much shorter than driving but still requires a rental vehicle on Cape Cod itself.
Get around: Plan to rent a car at the airport. There are some public buses available, as well as cabs, but a car is virtually essential.
Stay: specializes in rental properties in Brewster and Dennis. They primarily deal with Ocean Edge Resort and Golf Course, offering a large community selection of private residences or an upscale hotel. Be sure to check if golf and/or pool memberships are included with each rental because it varies with each property.
Dine: Cape Cod is a fresh-seafood lover’s heaven. Even a friend with shellfish allergies had no trouble finding something on every menu. With much of the lodging in non-hotel settings and many with patio grills, a trip to the supermarket could save on a few restaurants tabs — and best of all, no “Farm-raised in Thailand” labels.
Not to be missed is the landmark Lobster Pot (321 Commercial St., 508-487-0842, ) in Provincetown, at the very northern tip of the Cape. Centrally located in town, it boasts a menu with more variety than any 10 restaurants elsewhere.
Lobster, clam chowder and clambakes are in abundant supply.
Check restaurants for seasonal prices. The Land Ho! in Orleans (38 Main St., 508-255-5165, ), which also has a location in Harwich Port (429 Route 28, 508-430-0404) had a 1 1/4-pound lobster for under $25. Others quote over $30 the same night. There can be long waits on weekends in high season at Land Ho! for good reason.
Another great value in the Brewster area was the self-service: JT’s Seafood (2689 Main St., Brewster, 508-896-3355, ), the best fresh swordfish, shellfish platters and a variety of everything else.
More info: (also includes a guide to numerous family campgrounds)
