Hidden away in the tiny town of Cotacachi is the welcoming resort La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa, a Relais & Chateaux property that looks exactly like the historic colonial hacienda it is — all regal columns and acres of bougainvilleas. The Queen of Spain stayed here, and don’t be surprised to see Oscar winners and rock stars.
What makes it special: Peacocks and peahens wander the impeccably groomed grounds, visible through every elaborately designed room — including the restaurant, a must for a meal even if you’re staying elsewhere in Cotacachi. The palatial decor imbues the setting with the sense that guests are royalty and to be treated as such, and the food — locally sourced and referential, yet far more upscale — is simply divine.
Try this treatment: La Mirage’s female shaman descended from a well-known local healer, and while initially it’s a bit awkward to strip naked before she waves burning branches and blows smoke on you, then rubs an egg all over your skin (to remove the evil spirits), the subsequent soak in a rose-petal tub and vigorous rubdown she gives have a way of canceling out the weirdness. You’ll leave the purification treatment (90 min., $150) with a red-bead bracelet and a big hug, as well as the feeling that you’ve just been given a Harry Potter-like mark to ward off bad luck.
Rates: A room with a queen bed starts at $350 and includes a hot breakfast.
Get there: Cotacachi is 10-15 minutes from the famous Otavalo market and about a three-hour drive northeast from Quito.
Calle 10 de Agosto, 593-6-2915-237,
