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Getting your player ready...

Tacos are standouts at Lena in Denver. (William Porter)

I love a quality taco, especially ones made in the traditional soft or soave style, the ingredients piled on a plient tortilla made from fresh corn flour. And when I visited Lena, the restaurant at 24 Broadway that I , I was swooning.

opened seven months ago in a former furniture store. The food is a tour of Central and South American cuisines, with nods to Mexico, too.

Two tacos I particularly loved: the barbacoa de cabra, which was tender goat shredded and nestled in the corn tortillas, and the carnitas de bisonte, slow-roasted bison short ribs shucked from the bone, then loaded onto tacos with jicama slaw, white cheese and a white salsa. Both had deep, dark flavors with bright top notes.

Best of all, they sell them at happy hour for $3 a pop.

But the tacos really got my attention

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