When Darren Byrd opened as a catering and food truck business in 2013, word of mouth spread quickly about his low-and-slow way with beef and pork — even chicken.
So when he opened his brick-and-mortar restaurant in late spring, the huzzahs filled the air in Denver’s Sunnyside neighborhood like smoke from a wood-fired pig roaster.
Byrd and his crew are putting out excellent barbecue in a homey, bareboned room at 4044 Tejon St., just a few doors up from Mexican restaurant. Big Country has a Western vibe, with saddles and tack on the walls, and a couple of throwback touches such as a vintage television set with an ash-blond cabinet sitting in one corner.
It’s a simple menu whose culinary needle hovers south-by-southwest. Wondering what they serve? Just check the blackboard. You place your order at the counter, and soon enough, your tray is borne to the table.
While pulled chicken is on the money, yardbird plays second-fiddle to pork and beef, which also include housemade sausage for hot links fans.
Pork ribs are almost impossibly meaty, with a fine balance of fat and lean, with an excellent “chew.” The pork sheers cleanly off the bone at the touch of the incisors, just as it should.
Pulled pork is ultra-moist, and might have benefited from being chopped a bit, too, which would allow the flavors to tighten up.
Two sauces are available. One was billed as a smoked jalapeño and Coca-Cola sauce, or “Co-Cola” if you’re from the Southeast. The name promised more flavor than it actually delivered. While there was a nice bite, it could have been a bit sweeter and thicker — just a bit more oomph to the flavor.
But the pepper-vinegar sauce was outstanding, beautifully balanced and in the grand tradition of eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce. It would be interesting to see Byrd come up with a mustard-spiked sauce that echoes the South Carolina variant.
Byrd’s beef barbecue is all about Texas, and I’m thinking Lone Star Staters would approve. They would certainly tip their Stetsons to the fact that the kitchen crew will often come out and ask a table how they like their food.
Big Country’s brisket is a fine mix of texture and flavor, and .
I was also enamored with the burnt ends, a savory treat that inspires near-Pavlolian reactions from fans, right down to the tingle at the back of your jaw. They are that good, and are available in sandwiches as well as platters. (Yes, combo plates are available for folks who are waffling between meats, with the heartiest one, a three meat-two sides affair, ringing in at $15.95.)
Side dishes include the usual suspects, but with some nice touches.
The cole slaw is a coarse shred, boasting a touch of pickle relish and not unduly loaded with mayonnaise. Potato salad was of the Southern picnic style, with red potatoes spiked with mustard. Celery and onion gave it a good crunch.
Baked beans were smoky, and the creamy mac-and-cheese would make a Wisconsin dairyman beam with approval.
Big Country doesn’t serve alcohol. You get tea, sweetened or not, plus a selection of local sodas. Try the , created by the Co. in Denver. It’s the bottle whose yellow label sports a lynx.
Sunnyside has needed a spot for authentic barbecue, and Byrd and Co. are delivering in a big way. Where there’s smoke …
William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp
BIG COUNTRY BBQ
American Barbecue
4044 Tejon St., 720-536-8851, mmmbig.com
**½
Very Good/Great
Atmosphere: Simple, down-home vibe
Service: Fast, friendly
Beverages: Sweet tea, lemonade, sodas
Plates: Plates, $11.95-$15.95; ribs, $13.50-$26 (whole rack)
Hours: Wednesday- Thursday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Sunday hours coming soon.
Details: Street parking
Two visits
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
Stars reflect the dining reviewer’s overall reaction to the restaurant’s food, service and atmosphere.
