“You can hide squash in just about anything,” Jonathan Gold recently wrote. Was that statement by the food critic for the Los Angeles Times a backhanded compliment, a weak nod to squash’s versatility and mildness, to its reputation as the chicken of vegetables? Perhaps.
But a good winter squash can be as satisfying in its own way as a plate of barbecued ribs. When squash is fresh (its flavors start to slowly dull as soon it is picked) and carefully prepared, it has a great texture and a subtle sweetness that is enhanced by roasting.
I like to serve fresh acorn squash with the skin still on. The skin is pleasantly chewy and adds a lovely green color that is in contrast to the squash’s orange flesh. Brown butter and sage, a combination that is the very essence of fall, are a perfect flavor foil, and an assertive squeeze of lemon balances the whole dish. The almonds add a welcome note of texture.
Roasted Acorn Squash with Brown Butter, Sage and Lemon
Serves 4 as a side dish
Ingredients
1 acorn squash, rinsed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoon brown sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 small sage leaves
1 lemon, halved
1 tablespoon toasted crushed almonds
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Optional: grated Parmesan
Directions
Preheat oven to 350.
With a sharp knife, halve the squash. Using a soup spoon, scrape out the pulp and seeds from the center and discard. Cut the squash lengthwise into ½-inch slices. Place the squash slices in a bowl and toss with olive oil, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Place on a thick baking sheet and cook until tender and caramelized, 30-45 minutes.
Transfer the squash slices to a platter and keep in a warm place. Place the butter in a small sauce pan over high heat and cook until it begins to color, Add the sage leaves (be careful, they will cause the butter to spatter) and cook until the butter is fragrant and nut-brown. Immediately add the almonds, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the squash pieces (use a generous amount of it, but do not drown the squash in butter) and add the grated Parmesan if using. Serve immediately.
