Weeds in the landscape
Weeds are annoying. Exceptions are the culinary weeds like dandelions, purslane and lamb’s quarter, which happen to be delightfully edible when young and not sprayed with herbicides.
Annual weeds live one year — letting them go to seed ensures their return next year. These include crabgrass, purslane, knotweed and common chickweed.
Perennial weeds come back every year, and without removal they can easily take the focus off your flower blooms. They also return year after year if not removed. Common ones include dandelions, bindweed, Canada thistle, mallow and broadleaf plantain. Check out weed mug shots at
Weeds can host pest insects like thrips or leafhoppers, which are known for carrying diseases that can infect tomatoes and several ornamental plants, like purple coneflower, asters, mums and cosmos.
Any exposed or disturbed soil or bare ground in the landscape is an invitation for weed growth. Plant open areas with shrubs or perennials (well mulched) or add hardscape features like walkways or a patio.
Work on growing and maintaining a healthy lawn. A few lawn weeds are OK. Overuse of broadcast herbicides may reduce lawn vigor.
Hand dig for immediate removal (and satisfaction), or identify the weeds and carefully spot treat with sprays. Be sure to read all labels to learn if the product willwork on the identified weed and for application information.
Products labeled as non-selective will harm or kill ornamental plants as well. Incorrect application of lawn weed products often results in areas of dead lawn. Read the label!
Stronger horticultural vinegars and organic weed products containing botanical oils are an option and work well on weeds between flagstones. Try boiling water over weeds in tight spaces. Repeated application may be required for tougher weeds.
Never spray any products on windy days when drift can harm close-by plants, pets, people, birds or fish.
Battle bindweed even if it may take years. You’ll eventually tire it to death with consistent removal and/or use of weed sprays.
Weed fabric use is common, but weeds often grow on top of the barrier and then find their way below and through the fabric. A 2- to 3-inch mulch layer works well on its own to keep weeds down, and they are much easier to pull.
Mulch is your friend; it suppresses weed growth and keeps soils cool, which also reduces watering needs.
Many female trees including ash, honeylocust and crabapple form seeds that sprout in lawns or just about anywhere, the worst offender being Siberian elm trees. These tenacious tree weeds grow in the most peculiar spots and generally go unnoticed until they are overgrown and hard to remove. Mowing will keep tree seeds from maturing. Rake and move around mulch where seeds are taking hold to dislodge. ()
Suckers from aspen, sumac and other trees can become a nuisance in lawns. They take nutrients away from the main tree. Pull or cut them at any time they reappear during the growing season. Use sucker stop products on the market with care and according to label instructions.
No-fail tomato planting
Before planting tomatoes, or any warm-season vegetables, nights should be consistently in the mid-50s. Cold temperatures can set back growing by several days or weeks, plan to use covers on cold nights.
The planting area should be in full sun, away from competing tree roots and in well-amended, loose, fertile soil.
Sterilize all planting cages and supports with a 1 to 10 bleach/water solution or disinfectant spray to remove possible carryover fungus or disease from previous years. Sit for five minutes after being sprayed, then rinse well.
Vegetable transplants, mainly tomatoes, can get leggy. This means tall gaps between the leaves making it weak and easy to fall over. It often happens when they are grown for too long in the garden center or indoors under lights. As long as the plant is healthy, it’s okay to purchase and plant. To compensate for the leggyness and prevent being whipped about in the wind, plant them deeply.
First remove any peat-based container the tomato is growing in — these containers do not break down in our dry soils. So for a healthy plant and root system, carefully remove prior to planting.
Container-grown tomatoes can easily be tapped out of the container before planting. Water a day before transplanting so the root ball stays together and is easier to place and plant.
Dig a deep planting hole, cut off the lowest sets of leaves, leaving just the top set of leaves. Wherever side leaves are removed, roots will develop, making the plant stronger.
Carefully set in the bottom of the hole. The hole may have to be dug deeper if the plant is very tall.
Place a stake or stick next to the foliage for the plant to be supported as it grows.
Carefully fill in the soil around the plant to the top, where there should be just a set or two of top leaves showing. If using a container, use the same procedure. Trench planting a tomato on its side works well too, especially if a deep hole cannot be dug in the garden space. Video:
Cage or stake determinate tomatoes (ones that produce fruit until frost). Smaller determinate or container tomatoes often don’t need staking.
Protect all transplants from wind and afternoon sun until well established.
Betty Cahill: gardenpunchlist
