Colorado Springs — My idea of a wilderness experience begins with slinging a pack onto my back and schlepping food, clothing and shelter up a backcountry trail. The Broadmoor Resort offers a softer take of what a wilderness experience can be.
The Colorado Springs hotel recently converted a pair of mountain properties into Broadmoor-worthy luxury lodges.
Instead of hiking, their “Wilderness Experience” guests are carted up in chauffeur-driven Escalades. And instead of cramped tents and reconstituted freeze-dried meals, they bunk in private log cabins and dine on gourmet fare served with wine.
Our next-door neighbors booked a Wilderness Experience stay and raved about it. Needing to keep up with the Joneses, my outdoor-loving wife agreed to give it a try.
Our neighbors stayed at Cloud Camp, a lofty, ridge-top property overlooking the city of Colorado Springs. It features a dozen cabins and a freshly built main lodge that looks as if it was pilfered from a national park.
We booked our two-night escape at the Ranch at Emerald Valley, a wooded enclave in the forest. Checking in at the Broadmoor, a bellman unloaded our luggage, and a valet parked our car. While the five-star treatment was appreciated, arriving in Levi’s and T-shirts made us feel a bit out of place at this opulent resort. The feeling changed once we reached the ranch.
At 8,200 feet, the Emerald Valley occupies a secluded valley worthy of its name. A wildflower-hemmed creek feeds a pair of trout-stocked ponds, and a man-made waterfall cascades down a precipice at lawn’s edge. Ten log cabins are scattered around a central lodge whose deck overlooks the first pond. Outside sits a gas fire pit, and down the hill stand classic hot tubs fabricated from wood, not fiberglass.
Succumbing to the ranch’s aura of calming tranquility, we decided to do something we rarely do. Nothing. Retreating to the waterfall, we spent the afternoon relaxing to the sedative sound of cascading water.
“I could really get used to this,” I whispered to my wife.
Rested, revitalized and recharged, we headed to the lodge for cocktails, followed by dinner. After desert we stopped by the blazing fire pit where marshmallows, graham crackers and Hershey bars awaited.
“You can’t make s’mores properly on gas flames,” my wife sneered as she stuffed marshmallows onto a roasting stick. “You need coals!”
In the morning, pots of cowboy coffee, the kind made with grounds in the water, awaited by the fire pit. Filtered coffee, tea and hot chocolate was available for tenderfoots unwilling to chew their brew.
Ranch activities include fly-fishing and archery with daily lessons provided, as well as hiking and canoeing. Inspired by the cowboy coffee, we opted for a guided horseback ride through the forest.
Sitting in the saddle for two hours can make one’s hinter-end feel fatigued, so after lunch, we proceeded to the hot tubs for a simmering soak. Dinner and a stop by the fire followed. My finicky wife once again gritted her teeth and crafted more s’mores over the flames.
After breakfast the following morning, we reluctantly packed for the ride back down the mountain. Next time I schlep food, clothing and shelter up a backcountry trail, I’m going to fondly remember this Broadmoor version of a wilderness experience.
Yes, I could really get used to this.
Dan Leeth is a travel writer/photographer; more at
