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DENVER, CO - Nov. 11: Food ...
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colorado peaches
Cyrus McCrimmon, The Denver Post
Colorado peaches from High Country Orchards in Palisade, CO.
You’d think that sipping sweet wine with sweet food would be a dispiriting culinary math, adding something pleasant onto something else pleasant so that, together, neither is. Well, the palate doesn’t work that way, strangely enough. (Whatap indisputably unpleasant is drinking dry wine with sweet food.) Always match the level of sugar in the wine with that in the food. Very sweet cake, for example? A very sweet wine. This dish is moderately sweet, so something noticeably but not cloyingly sweet will do. In truth, an off-dry red would be perfect, echoing the fruit flavors in the tart itself.

HERE’S THE DISH …

Take 1 pint blueberries and 3 cups peeled peaches, sliced thinly, and add 3/4 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons cornstarch and 2 teaspoons cold water to a large saucepan. Gently stir together, making sure not to excessively bruise fruit; bring to a boil over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind. Preheat oven to 425. Transfer fruit to a pie pan and top with pie crust to cover (homemade or frozen, defrosted). Sprinkle crust with 1 tablespoon granulated sugar. Place on baking sheet to catch juices that may bubble up while baking. Bake for 20 minutes or until pastry is golden. Serve warm, with vanilla ice cream or either whipped or unwhipped thick cream.
— Recipe from Denver Post food writer Helen Dollaghan, July 1992.

AND PAIR IT WITH …
The Italians produce a raft of off-dry or slightly sweet wines, much of it red. Look for the word “amabile” (lovable, gentle, amiable) on the label. Perhaps the most well-known of Italian reds in this category is Lambrusco, from the northeastern region of Emilia-Romagna (though many Lambruscos are dry; again, look for “amabile”). A delicious slightly sweet red comes from the other side of the country, Piedmont, where they make Brachetto d’Acqui. Piedmont also makes Moscato, favored by many for its lower alcohol. Other off-dry wines: Madeira from the island of the same name; Banyuls or Maury from southern France; and many a German riesling.

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