Orrapan Botthaisong lives 8,000 miles away from her parents in Thailand. She moved to Denver by herself 14 years ago to get her MBA from the University of Denver, and decided afterward that because she loves food, the business she wanted to open was a restaurant.
That happened in 2022 with La Mai Thai Kitchen, a casual spot at 2001 Sheridan Blvd. in Edgewater, that is named for her mother, La Mai.
A few days ago, she opened a second restaurant with more of a sit-down feel. Som Dee Thai Kitchen & Bar, at 1598 E. 17th Ave. in Denver, is named for her father.
“It makes me feel close to them,” she said about the names. When I am at La Mai Thai, it makes me feel like I am going to my mom’s house. At Som Dee, I feel like I am at my dad’s.”
But it almost didn’t happen. Botthaisong was ready to open in August – her parents even flew to Denver from Thailand to be there – but city permitting issues stopped it at the last minute. “I almost gave up,” she said. But then she thought about her employees, some of whom had moved here from Thailand to be part of her restaurant and were relying on her for their incomes.
Thatap why Botthaisong was all smiles during a soft opening of Som Dee last week, and why she asked her brother – who is in the U.S. temporarily to help – to remember the day forever. “This is my dream,” she said. “And now it is here.”
Som Dee offers some similar dishes to La Mai Thai, but Botthaisong’s goal was to create a more upscale feeling, something she’s done by bringing in elegant booths and tables, red mood lighting and gold Thai-style ceiling lights that symbolize good luck. The finer-dining atmosphere in the 3,500-square-foot space is also elevated by a long bar and a specialty cocktail list that Botthaisong designed with a bartender from Thailand who moved here to work for her.
“American bartenders have a lot of skill, but I wanted someone to make drinks that mesh with my food,” she explained, using the analogy of margaritas with Mexican food.
And “there are thousands of Thai dishes,” she continued, not just the ones that Americans are used to. Thatap why the chef’s specials will change every three months. I don’t want people to get tired of the same Thai food. I want Denver to try all of the dishes I ate when I was a kid.”
Two of her favorites (both very spicy) are the spaghetti kee mao, made with scallops in a spicy sauce; and the “Heatwave Shrimp,” a full-flavored showstopper that consists of shrimp stir-fried with heaps of garlic, crunchy Thai chili, scallions and cilantro.
But there is also the Somdee Steak, based on a meal that her father loves. Itap a ribeye seasoned with Thai spices and toasted with a sticky rice crust. Other dishes include classics like pad Thai, drunken noodles, pad see ew, several curries, khao soi, tom kha and larb.
Botthaisong has about 30 employees between her two restaurants, from hosts and wait staff to chefs and bartenders. But she said she can work every station herself if need be. For example, there have been days at La Mai Thai when she was the only one cooking in the kitchen, answering the phone, helping people to their seats and wrapping to-go orders. She even went to bartending school so she could learn how to make cocktails in a professional way.
“I am that kind of person, I have confidence in myself,” she said.
