By Ali Slagle, The New York Times
Tofu is often called a blank canvas, an empty surface on which to paint your sauces, marinades and whims. But, while its flavor is mild, tofu is anything but blank. It brings plenty to the plate: a subtle nuttiness, a sweet milkiness and, with some cajoling, crispness. Here are seven ways that the artist-cook in each of us can bring out its full potential.
1. Season it with soy sauce
While sprinkling tofu with salt coaxes out its flavor, soy sauce can do more. Drizzle patted-dry tofu with soy sauce for seasoning, savoriness and texture: Whether you cook tofu on the stovetop or on a sheet pan in the oven, the soy sauce’s sugars will caramelize into an alluringly crisp, golden crust.
2. Broil it
Baking tofu is a meandering journey to possibly floppy or possibly tough tofu. The broiler is a more direct sprint, requiring just 15 minutes to char the exterior but maintain a custardy middle. Even a short stint is beneficial: crisping tofu’s edges and concentrating any marinade.
3. Toss it into salads
That carton of grocery store tofu doesn’t need to be cooked to be enjoyed. Cut or scooped right from the package, both firm and silken varieties can provide a delicate, cooling, almost milky pause in salads — much like a dollop of ricotta or a drizzle of creamy dressing. Contrast the cold, curdlike tofu with the assertive and crunchy: chunky peanut butter, a spicy soy sauce dressing, sizzled garlic and ginger, and more.
4. Scoop it into soups
While scoops of silken tofu in a bowl of soup can look like icebergs, they’re anything but. Silky, warm and wobbly, they break apart at the swipe of a spoon, adding a different kind of softness. You can heat the silken tofu in the pot for a few minutes, or scoop it directly into bowls and pour the soup over top. Either way, it will gently absorb the broth’s warmth and flavor.
5. Tuck it into a sandwich
A slippery slab of tofu might not look like it can be fried, but neither does a chicken breast — and both can, happily. Dunk extra-firm tofu in a combination of wet and dry coatings, then fry it in hot oil. It’ll emerge craggy and golden, just like fried chicken or steak. You could serve it alongside a green vegetable, but it shines in a sandwich: Stack the fried tofu onto buns with mayo, pickles and shredded cabbage or lettuce. Take a big bite and let the shattery tofu give way to its soft center.
6. Crumble it up
Free tofu from right angles and crumble it into small pieces so all its craggy edges soak up seasonings. Tofu is made of curds of soy milk, making it easy to break apart into pieces that resemble ground meat using just your fingers or a wooden spoon. As they sizzle in oil, their water will wick away; they’ll get thirsty — ready to drink up whatever assertive ingredients you toss them with, including ground spices, dried chiles, soy sauce and tomato paste for a savory sizzling taco filling.
7. Whip it into dip
For its last magic trick, tofu will whir into an ethereally light, fluffy dip. This sorcery works with all firmnesses, from silken (for a silkier sauce resembling heavy cream) to extra-firm (for something closer to ricotta). Just like any dip, you can give a tofu-based one a spicy, herby, savory or other personality by blending in other ingredients. Eat it with crackers, bread, or crudités — or spoon it onto a platter and pile roasted vegetables or a salad on top.
Recipes
Vegetable Soup With Tamarind and Lemongrass
Tamarind is the prominent flavor in this soup, showing up as a subtle sour ingredient that gently awakens the senses. This light, brothy soup packs a delicious punch from ginger and lemongrass, with a breath of heat from chiles. Itap closely modeled after Sundanese sayur asem, Isan tom klong pla and Timorese sour fish soup, which all so successfully achieve the delicate balance of tart and spice. Like those, this soup provides a wonderful base for variation and nods to convenience. Medallions of sweet potato and daikon are poached, just enough to remain crisp, while tender tofu (soft or silken) absorbs the essence of the fragrant stew. A shower of fresh herbs adds the finishing touch. Serve piping hot, by itself or ladled over steamed rice or noodles.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 35 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
- 2 shallots, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
- 2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed, cut into 4-inch-long pieces and smashed with the side of a knife
- 1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed and grated (about 2 tablespoons)
- 1 (14-1/2-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices
- 1 to 3 green Thai chiles, sliced or whole, depending on your heat preference
- Salt and black pepper
- 4 cups vegetable stock
- 2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate or 1/2 cup tamarind purée (see tip)
- 1 medium sweet potato (about 11 ounces), scrubbed, cut into thin 1/4-inch rounds
- 1 small bunch of red radishes or a small daikon, (about 8 ounces), scrubbed, and cut into 1/4-inch slices (2 cups)
- 1 to 2 tablespoons fish sauce (optional)
- 2 cups mature spinach leaves
- 1 (14-ounce) pack silken, soft or medium firm tofu, drained and broken into large 2- to 3-inch chunks
- 1 cup mixed chopped fresh herbs, such as basil, dill and cilantro
Preparation
1. Heat the oil in a medium Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high until the oil shimmers. Add the shallots, and stir until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, lemongrass and 1 tablespoon grated ginger. Stir and cook until fragrant, 1 minute.
2. Reduce heat to medium and add the tomatoes, their juices and the chiles. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir and break up the tomato pieces. Simmer until the tomato juices thicken slightly, 4 minutes. Season lightly with salt and black pepper. Stir in the vegetable stock, tamarind and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil over medium-high, then lower heat to medium and simmer until the liquid reduces just slightly, about 8 minutes.
3. With the heat set to medium, add the potato and cook until just beginning to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the radish and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining ginger and fish sauce, if using. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Add in the spinach and tofu, and cook until the spinach is wilted and the tofu is warmed through, 1 minute.
4. Divide the soup and vegetables among bowls and garnish with a scattering of chopped herbs. Serve immediately while hot.
Tip
Tamarind can be found as a purée or paste, in varying degrees of concentration. First taste the store-bought tamarind to determine how acidic it is and how much to use in the soup. Tamarind pods or pulp can also be bought to make the purée at home. All options are available at African, Caribbean or Asian grocery stores.
Glazed Tofu With Chile and Star Anise
This sauce — a dark, star anise-spiced caramel intermingled with rice wine, soy sauce, ginger and scallions — builds sweet, acidic and umami notes as it coats and infuses tofu. Sichuan hui guo rou, or twice-cooked pork, inspired the technique used here with tofu: The blocks are first seared whole, then torn into bite-size pieces and returned to the pan, where the craggy edges absorb the sauce. Additions from your pantry, such as a spoonful of doubanjiang, or fermented broad bean paste, fermented black beans or chile oil can invite deeper, more complex flavors. Serve warm with steamed rice and stir-fried greens.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 (14-ounce) packages firm tofu, drained
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed
- Kosher salt
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 whole star anise
- 1 cup vegetable broth or stock
- 1/4 cup Shaoxing wine
- 1/4 cup dark soy sauce (see tip)
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 (1/2-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed and thinly sliced
- 1 small hot dried chile
- 6 scallions, whites cut into 1/2-inch pieces, greens thinly sliced
- Steamed rice, for serving
Preparation
1. Place the tofu blocks between paper towels and press gently to remove excess liquid.
2. In a large skillet or cast-iron pan, warm the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season both sides of the tofu with salt and place in the pan; sear without moving until the contact side is browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the pieces over and sear the other side until browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer the tofu to a plate.
3. Carefully add 1/2 cup water, the sugar and star anise to the pan. (The mixture will sputter and steam.) Cook, stirring, until the syrup is reduced and turns deep amber, 4 to 5 minutes. Pour in the stock carefully (again being mindful of sputtering), along with the Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and chile, and cook, stirring frequently, until reduced, syrupy and glossy, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Use your fingers to break the tofu into 1/2-inch pieces, return to the pan and add the scallion whites. Toss to coat with the sauce and cook until warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and discard the star anise and dried chile. Garnish with scallion greens and serve immediately with steamed rice.
Tip
To replicate 1/4 cup dark soy sauce using regular or light soy sauce, combine 1/4 cup regular or light soy sauce with 2 teaspoons molasses.
Roasted Broccoli and Whipped Tofu With Chile Crisp Crunch
The concept here is simple, but the results are truly spectacular: Broccoli florets are tossed with olive oil and soy sauce, steamed in the oven until softened, then crowned with crunchy chile crisp breadcrumbs. The broccoli is bundled up in aluminum foil, then cooked, so that it tenderizes swiftly and retains moisture. Meanwhile, chile crisp, panko, cashews and olive oil are toasted in a skillet until seasoned and crunchy. (This mix would also be stellar over peanut noodles, roasted vegetables or salad greens.) The optional base of two-ingredient cashew cream (tofu and cashew butter) adds lusciousness and protein. This dish has got heat, but itap more about texture.
By Alexa Weibel
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
For the broccoli:
- 1-1/2 pounds broccoli (about 2 medium heads), cut into 1-inch florets
- 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 teaspoons soy sauce
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cashews
- 1 tablespoon chile crisp, plus more for serving if you like
- 1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs
For the cashew cream (optional):
- 14 ounces drained silken tofu
- 1 cup cashew butter
Preparation
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. Add the broccoli, drizzle with 3 tablespoons olive oil and the soy sauce, season lightly with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Arrange in an even layer, then dot with the garlic.
2. Tightly wrap the broccoli mixture with another piece of aluminum foil, sealing shut, and bake until crisp-tender, about 15 minutes.
3. While the broccoli bakes, prepare the chile crisp breadcrumbs: Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over medium. Add the cashews, season to taste with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.
4. Add the chile crisp to the cashews, then stir in the panko and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the panko is toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
5. If using cashew cream, add the tofu, cashew butter and 6 tablespoons water to a small food processor; blend until fluffy. Season generously with salt and pepper, then spread it on a serving platter or shallow bowl.
6. Arrange the cooked broccoli on top, drizzle with additional chile crisp, if desired, and sprinkle generously with the chile crisp topping. Serve immediately, with any additional chile crisp crunch on the side.
Tofu With Sizzling Scallion Oil
This refreshing weeknight meal comes together in less than 15 minutes and barely requires turning on the stove. Aromatic garlic, ginger and scallions are gently heated in oil until they sizzle and infuse it, turning into a fragrant, lively sauce for mild silken tofu. Peppery arugula and a final drizzle of tangy cilantro sauce brighten the dish. Enjoy with steamed rice for a heftier meal, or top with fried eggs. Leftover tofu can be stored in the scallion oil and refrigerated; it will have absorbed even more flavor the next day.
By Kay Chun
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 10 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 (14- to 16-ounce) package silken tofu
- Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and pepper
- 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as safflower or canola
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
- 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
- 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
- 2 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar
- 2 cups baby arugula
Preparation
1. Remove the tofu from its package; drain the tofu then pat it dry. Scoop spoonfuls of the tofu onto a large platter and arrange in an even layer. Season with salt and pepper.
2. In a small saucepan, combine neutral oil, sesame oil, scallions, garlic and ginger. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until oil is sizzling and garlic, ginger and scallions are softened but not browned, about 3 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine soy sauce, cilantro and vinegar.
4. Spoon hot scallion mixture over the tofu. Top with arugula and drizzle with the cilantro sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature.
This article originally appeared in .
